The turkey (and gravy)

This week’s premium edition is coming out a day early for reasons that will soon be obvious. I just want to add a special thanks to all of you for being premium subscribers, it really has meant so much to me I hope this weird little project has been helpful, entertaining, or at least a distraction.

We’ve already discussed — at length — the centerpiece of the the meal and now it’s time to get to work on cooking the bird. In my wayward youth, I tried all kinds of ways to adulterate, modify, or otherwise improve upon the standard. A little over a decade ago, though, I discovered the now-exceedingly-popular dry brine, first introduced by Russ Parsons in the pages of the LA Times. Not long after that, the word “spatchcock” entered the lexicon and was very fun to say, right until it wasn't. No matter how you say it, removing the backbone and splaying out the fowl (I prefer “butterfly”) does make for an excellent roasted turkey, both cutting down on the time required and more evenly cooking the bird.

When it comes time to carve the bird, dispose of any notions of cutting into it at the table. It’s impractical, a huge mess, and just delays the meal that much longer. Instead, carve the turkey in the safety of your own kitchen — this is a guide from the Culinary Institute of America I return to year after year, and the decade-old style and music only adds to the charm.

And we can’t forget the gravy. I’ll be honest, gravy has historically stressed me out, because I forever thought it needed to be the very last thing that came off the stove, to be placed on the table mere seconds before grace is bestowed. Not true! You can — and absolutely should make your gravy ahead of time, warm it up around the time you carve the turkey, no need to stress.