Whenever I find myself with a scowling expression of the mouth; whenever it is an icy, sleeting February in my soul; whenever I find myself involuntarily pausing before towering new luxury apartment complexes; and especially when I must stop myself from deliberately stepping into the street and methodically smashing the windows of every T*sla I see — then I account it high time to get to sea, and see some seals, as soon as I can.

This was my particular disposition at the very start of the new year, but my plans were foiled again and again by the devilish nature of the skies. I was initially supposed to go on Classic Harbor Line’s seal boat in January, but then a winter storm cancelled the cruise. I rebooked in early February, but this cruise was cancelled, too, because temperatures were in the low 10s. But on February 14, I finally made it, and as we sailed into the splintering ice sheets of the Hudson under the dazzling winter sun, the great flood-gates of the wonder-world swung open, and in there my innermost soul was at last reacquainted with the creature I love above all others: the harbor seal.

Seal season is, to me, the saving grace of New York City winters. Sure, it is too cold to hang outside with my friends. Yes, I am constantly at risk of eating shit on invisibly icy sidewalks. Of course I too am experiencing seasonal depression. But the seals are a salve. Seals begin to arrive in New York City in November, migrating south to enjoy our ice-free waters for easier fishing. They stick around through spring and can be spotted on remote shores or sandbanks at Orchard Beach, Lemon Creek Park, as well as beaches at Coney Island and in the Rockaways.

But the easiest, and most reliable way to see seals in the city might be aboard The Classic Harbor Line’s seal, seabirds, and winter wildlife tour, which ferries you in a beautiful boat to Hoffman and Swinburne Islands, which were once used to quarantine immigrants and are now a favorite haul-out spot for seals. I love learning about seal subculture from the cruise’s guide, urban naturalist Russell Jacobs, who prepared a bunch of fun facts about animal courtship to celebrate the fact that our seal cruise was on Valentine’s Day. I love sipping hot tea in the warmth of the beautiful boat before venturing out to the deck to brace myself against the icy coastal wind and enjoy the sights of twenty-something seals plopped out on various rocks.

Seeing one seal is special, but seeing twenty-something seals is downright joyful. There’s simply so much to see. Some of the seals are sleeping, some are in banana pose, and some are splashing around in the water, blowing air out of their nostrils or smacking their tails against the surf for reasons unknowable to us. Here is the catch: The seals are all very far away, and you can only really see them with the help of binoculars. If you don’t have binoculars, you might be able to borrow some from the other boat-goers, but I’d recommend trying to borrow a pair before you go. This is why I did not take any good pictures of the seals, because I only had my phone and not a camera with a big lens that could accurately capture the seals. But I can promise you the seals looks great and detailed through my binoculars. Some were spotted! Some were wet! Many were looking right back at us! This one kept popping up in the water!

If you want to catch the seals sunning on the island, the cruises run on weekends (and randomly one Monday) through March 22. You can get tickets here (this is an affiliate link, so if you buy a ticket I will receive a commission). If you are not on a seal cruise budget, I know seals can often be seen on Orchard Beach at Pelham Bay Park in the Bronx. Now that things are warming up a little (fingers fucking crossed!) there’s never been a more tolerable time to venture out and see some seals, by land or by sea.

As we approach spring — which literally could not come fast enough—there are many fun events on the horizon, such as a kids-focused celebration of everyone’s favorite forage fish (menhaden, or bunker), some fungi identification hikes, and the first, very early spring migration walks of the year.

Please enjoy the world as it warms up and remember to look out for your neighbors, human and non-human. I can’t stop thinking about the murder of Nurul Amin Shah Alam, who was partially blind and froze to death after US Border Patrol agents abandoned him in the cold. It is unfathomably unjust that Shah Alam survived the Rohingya genocide only to die here, miles from his home. And I am remembering Aaron Bushnell, who self-immolated two years ago in front of the Israeli embassy. May we all refuse complicity, and do our best to take care of each other. Somewhat along those lines, I wrote a Defector blog yesterday about the saga of Punch, the baby macaque abandoned by his mother, and what we owe our fellow primates who are suffering. See you next month, and stay safe until then.

If you’d like to help me offset the costs of hosting this newsletter, you can choose to pay a monthly subscription at a level of your choosing.

Subscribe now

March

🌲 Trivia Under The Trees: March 1 @ 1pm. Escape the cold and compete in a friendly trivia competition at Forest Park! The Urban Park Rangers will test you on all things history, science, nature, and geography. The team with the most points at the end will win a prize.

🌠 March to the Stars: March 6 @ 6pm. All ages are invited to join Williamsbridge Oval Recreation Center and the Urban Park Rangers for a march to the stars astronomy event. Participants will learn the science, history, and folklore of astronomy and our universe followed by guided observations through telescopes and binoculars led by our Urban Park Rangers. Registration recommended.

🐦 Intro to Birding in Morningside Park: March 7 @ 9am. Join NYC Bird Alliance in Morningside Park, also designed by Central Park's architects Calvert Vaux and Frederick Law Olmsted! Learn the basics right before springtime. Registration encouraged.

🌱 Forest Park Winter Vine Sweep: March 7 @ 10am. Join NYC Parks and The Forest Park Trust for a winter vine sweep. Volunteers will hike on our trails and remove harmful vines from our trees and shrubs before they leaf out this spring. We'll also discuss basic forest structure and the importance of biodiversity. Registration required.

🌱 Signs of Spring Hike at Rockaway Beach: March 7 @ 10am. Join the Urban Park Rangers for a walk in the Arverne East Nature Preserve while looking for signs of blossoming flowers and birds. Learn about the plants and animals that call the preserve a home.

🐦 Winter Birding at Pelham Bay Park: March 8 @ 9am. Join NYC Bird Alliance to explore New York City's largest park! Pelham Bay Park's forested areas, salt marshes, and grassy meadows offer rich habitat for a variety of migrating birds.

🦆 Birding at Floyd Bennett Field with Jamaica Bay-Rockaway Parks Conservancy: March 8 @ 9:30am. Join NYC Bird Alliance and Jamaica Bay-Rockaway Parks Conservancy at Floyd Bennett Field! This former airfield-turned-natural haven offers a variety of habitats, from marshes to meadows, making it the perfect place to spot winter visitors like shovelers, scoters, and mergansers.

🐦 Beginner Birding at Crotona Park: March 8 @ 10am. Our Urban Park Rangers will guide you to the best viewing spots in New York City to see birds. Learn a new skill and take up a new hobby as we help you identify some of the most common birds found in our parks.

☁️ Contemplating Clouds in Fort Tryon Park: March 8 @ 1pm. Join the Urban Park Rangers to learn about different types of clouds and what they mean. The Rangers will cover the meteorology of clouds, learn to ID clouds, and then do a guided meditation using what we learned as a metaphor.

🌳 Monthly Nature Exploration Hike Series in Inwood Hill Park: March 11 @ 1pm. Join the Urban Park Rangers for a monthly hike exploring Inwood Hill Park. The hike will begin at the Inwood Hill Nature Center. This month’s hike will be highlighting keystone species in Inwood Hill Park.

🌳 Washington Heights Street Tree Care with Super Stewards: March 13 @ 10am. Come work with NYC Parks Stewardship and your friendly neighborhood Super Stewards to care for local street trees!  Volunteers will learn how to aerate, cultivate, mulch, and identify street trees. They will also learn about the important roles street trees play in New York City. Registration required.

🦅 Winter Birding in Conference House Park, Staten Island: March 14 @ 8am. Discover a diversity of wintering birds with longtime birder and Staten Island resident, Anthony Ciancimino! Registration encouraged.

🐦 Intro to Birding at Prospect Park with NYC Bird Alliance: March 14 @ 9am. Join NYC Bird Alliance in Brooklyn's Backyard, Prospect Park.  You’ll learn the basics and spot the residents and wintering species calling NYC home. Registration required.

🍄 Fantastic Fungi Mushroom ID Hike in Forest Park: March 14 @ 10am. Prepare to be amazed by the wonders of the forest and the incredible diversity of fungi waiting to be discovered. Learn how fungi in NYC survive the winter season and begin their transition to the warmer months.

🌳 Inwood Hill Park Forest Restoration: March 14 @ 10am. Volunteer with the Stewardship Team to protect the forested areas in Inwood Hill Park! Volunteers will contribute to ongoing restoration work and learn the importance of species diversity to ecosystem health. Registration required.

🏖️ Canarsie Beach Cleanup: March 14 @ 10am. Please join us along with CM Mercedes Narcisse's office for a volunteer cleanup at Canarsie Beach in Brooklyn. Registration required.

🐦 Intro to Birding in Central Park with NYC Bird Alliance: March 15 @ 8:30am. Join NYC Bird Alliance in Central Park, a birding hotspot, where you’ll learn the basics and spot everything from lively warblers to finches, woodpeckers, ducks, and more!Registration required.

🐟 Mighty Menhaden at Floyd Bennett Field: March 15 @ 10am. Join us for Park Pals, an early childhood family program for children ages 0–6 and their caregivers designed to inspire curiosity, exploration, and connection with nature at Floyd Bennett Field! This month, we’ll celebrate the mighty menhaden, a small but powerful fish that plays a big role in keeping our oceans and bays healthy. Sometimes called the “most important fish in the sea,” menhaden help clean the water and provide food for dolphins, ospreys, and many other animals. For kids.

🐸 Discovery Hike - Vernal Pools at Alley Pond Park: March 15 @ 11am. Join the Urban Park Rangers as we explore the vernal pools of Alley Pond Park. Vernal pools are seasonal wetlands that are home to many distinct plants and animals. Rangers will talk about what kinds of amphibians can be found here, their life cycles, and how the geological history of Long Island has contributed to the formation of these unique habitats.

🌱 Spring Germination Station at Maria Hernandez Park: March 15 @ 11am. Celebrate the end of winter with a plant-themed walk through Maria Hernandez Park and learn all about how plants big and small prepare for the arrival of spring.

🦆 Winter Waterfowl at Highland Park: March 15 @ 1pm. Our Urban Park Rangers will guide you to the best viewing spots in New York City to see winter waterfowl. Birding programs are an all-inclusive safe space and appropriate for all skill levels and beginners are welcome. Join the Urban Park Rangers and learn to identify migrating waterfowl that overwinter at Ridgewood Reservoir. Bring binoculars!

🐦 American Woodcocks at Pelham Bay Park: March 15 @ 7pm. Join the Urban Park Rangers on an evening nature walk at Pelham Bay Park to learn all about the wacky world of woodcocks Also known as the Timberdoodle; Woodcocks take the skies at night with dazzling corkscrew flight patterns and charming vocalizations.

🌳 Prospect Lefferts Gardens Street Tree Care: March 20 @ 9am. Come work with NYC Parks Stewardship to care for local street trees! Volunteers will learn how to aerate, cultivate, mulch, and identify street trees. Registration required.

🌳 Astoria Street Tree Care with Super Stewards: March 21 @ 10am. Come work with NYC Parks Stewardship to care for local street trees! Volunteers will learn how to aerate, cultivate, mulch, and identify street trees. Registration required.

🌳 The Van Cortlandt Super Hike (Vigorous): March 21 @ 10am. Urban Park Ranger hiking guides will introduce you to the hidden gems of New York City. Urban Park Rangers will lead hikers through some of the hidden gems of Van Cortlandt Park on an 8 mile journey through the park’s diverse forests and ecosystems.

🐸 Discovery Hike - Vernal Pools at Alley Pond Park: March 21 @ 1pm. Join the Urban Park Rangers as we explore the vernal pools of Alley Pond Park. Vernal pools are seasonal wetlands that are home to many distinct plants and animals. Rangers will talk about what kinds of amphibians can be found here, their life cycles, and how the geological history of Long Island has contributed to the formation of these unique habitats.

🌷 Celebrate the Spring Equinox at Prospect Park: March 21 @ 3pm. Celebrate the Vernal Equinox in this enchanting section of Prospect Park. Reflect on the renewal of the Earth and the transition to longer days and warmer months.

🐦 Early Spring Migration at Pelham Bay Park: March 22 @ 10am. Join the Urban Park Rangers on a birding adventure around Pelham Bay Park to look for spring migrants that include warblers, raptors and more!

🐳 🦭 Marine Mammals Discovery Hike at Rockaway Beach: March 22 @ 1pm. Rockaway Beach has recently been a prominent site to view marine mammals such as whales and seals. Learn more about the different types of marine mammals that can be seen off the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. While we are not guaranteed to see any marine mammals, we will discuss some of the historical significance of whales and what you can do if you spot one in distress.

🐦 🏳️‍🌈 Let's Go Birding Together at Randall’s Island Park: March 28 @ 10am. Join an experienced guide from NYC Bird Alliance for a free spring birding tour at Randall’s Island Park! Let’s Go Birding Together is open to anyone who loves birds, is curious about them, or simply wants a fun outdoor experience.

🏖️ Pelham Bay Shoreline Cleanup: March 28 @ 10am. Join NYC H2O for a shoreline cleanup at Pelham Bay! Registration required.

🌱 Spring Has Sprung Hike at Prospect Park: March 28 @ 11am. Join the Urban Park Ranger on a woodland walk through the first wave of Springtime blooms. Learn about plant dormancy and the following phases of the spring back to greenery.

🍄 Fantastic Fungi Mushroom ID Hike: March 28 @ 1pm. Join the Urban Park Rangers as we explore the sometimes stinky yet always necessary world of decomposition through the lens of the many mushroom species in our parks. Participants will learn about the crucial role that mushrooms play in an ecosystem and how natural decomposition takes place.

🏖️ 🐦 Plumb Beach Spring Cleanup & Birding: March 29 @ 9am. Join the Brooklyn Bird Club for a birding and shoreline cleanup event at Plumb Beach, supported by the Jamaica Bay–Rockaway Parks Conservancy. We’ll focus on removing debris from the beach and surrounding areas; cleanup tools will be provided. Bring binoculars and keen eyes for spotting both birds and trash. Registration required.

🐦 Early Spring Migration at Central Park: March 29 @ 9am. Join the Urban Park Rangers on a birding adventure around Central Park to look for spring migrants that include warblers, raptors and more!

🐦 Early Spring Migration at Narrows Botanical Gardens: March 29 @ 11am. Join the Urban Park Rangers on a birding adventure around Shore Parkway to look for spring migrants that include warblers, raptors and more!

🐌 Pond Ecology Discovery Hike in Roy Wilkins Park: March 29 @ 1pm. Join the Rangers for a closer look at the varied pond life at Roy Wilkins Park - from slugs and flies, to fish and fowl! Get ready to get your hands a bit wet and dirty as we dig into the fascinating world of pond ecology.

Ongoing:

🦭⛵ Classic Harbor Line Seals, Seabirds, and Winter Wildlife Ecocruise: On this NYC boat ride, our expert tour guides and renowned Urban Naturalist Russell Jacobs, will regale you with fascinating tales of these iconic islands and historic waterways. They'll illuminate the stories of the migrating birds who inhabit the harbor this time of year. Once used as islands for quarantining immigrants with contagious diseases in the 19th century, Swinburne and Hoffman are modern day 'abandoned islands', reclaimed by nature as a breeding ground for birds, and a winter 'haul out' destination for Gray Seals and Harbor Seals. (This is an affiliate link, so if you buy a ticket I will receive a commission.)

🦪 Shoreline Cleanup with the Billion Oyster Project: On Thursdays at 2pm, loin us in collecting debris from New York City's shorelines to prevent it from re-entering the waterways when the tide returns. This is important in achieving our goal of protecting the biodiversity that lives near our reef sites.

🌹 New York Restoration Project: Everyone deserves access to high-quality public green space. If you’re interested in forest stewardship, volunteer with the NYRP in the parks of northern Manhattan clearing invasive plants, mulching, and clearing litter. Volunteer dates listed in the link above. Registration required.