I recently turned 30 (huge for me personally) and celebrated by going whale-watching on the American Princess, which is a beautiful diva name for a beautiful diva ship. It was a scorching hot day, but the commute to the cruise’s docks in Sheepshead Bay was easy and breezy — I took my trusty steed the B44-SBS all the way down.
As soon as you step on board the boat and feel those coastal breezes, even while it’s still docked, you know it is the start of a magical day. The last time I went on the American Princess was in 2019, also for my birthday, and I saw three whales and ate two hot dogs, which was a winning combination. That time, I also saw two ladies bring a platter of cocktail shrimp on board, which they feasted on inside the windowed, interior section of the boat. Simply aspirational! Now, the American Princess only allows you to bring sandwiches on board, a rule I understand. BYO–cocktail-shrimp-platter on the whale-watching boat opens a window to a kind of karmic justice (think of the uncooked shrimps when the Titanic went down) that I would like to avoid. So I brought bagels.
As we set off on the water, Celia Ackerman, a whale watch naturalist and research associate with the research organization Gotham Whale, spoke on a mic explaining the history of whales in New York.
Humpback whales were once all but extinct in New York City, per this Popular Science story. The waters of New York Harbor were a dumping ground for sewage, medical waste, and even paint. In the middle of the 20th century, when General Motors poured unwanted paint into the river, people could tell what shades were popular based on the current color of the river. But in the 1970s, the passage of the Clean Water Act improved water quality—dissolved oxygen nearly doubled and poop-related bacteria diminished, per JSTOR Daily. As the water cleared up, algae and zooplankton flourished, which replenished schools of small, silvery-gold fish called bunker that is a favorite food of bigger fish, dolphin, and humpback whales. And recent limits on commercial fishing of bunker have allowed the populations to flourish.