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February 2, 2026

The Chili Queens of San Antonio

The women who kept San Antonians fed for 60 years

hand lettered title that reads "I Think You're Sauceome" with a cartoon drawing of a peapod

My parents lived in San Antonio for over 25 years. I never lived there myself, but I got to visit several dozen times. It’s a charming, beautiful city with a fascinating and colorful history, and a lot of really fun stories like this one.

Chili Queens of San Antonio

In the 1800s, San Antonio, Texas was a rapidly expanding and developing city. 

The growing population needed to eat, and a group of enterprising Mexican and tejana women responded to the call.

They filled the city’s market squares with open air stalls where they cooked homemade food over mesquite fires. 

They sold menudo, enchiladas, tamales, and more, but were most famous for their chili con carne.

The chili was made with cubed beef and pork, simmered with lard, onions, garlic, spices, and of course, several different kinds of chili peppers. 

The chili queens’ stalls attracted everyone in the city - farm workers, businessmen, and travelers alike.
The market squares became bustling social hubs, with musicians playing, politicians debating, and neighbors exchanging news and gossip over hot, delicious chili con carne. 

In the late 1870s, the railroad arrived in San Antonio, and travel writers wrote about the city’s two main attractions: the Alamo, and the chili queens.

In the early 1900s, the San Antonio city government began imposing new regulations and inspections on the outdoor food stalls.

This move was Spurred by Pressure from established restaurants and concern for public health, and probably no small amount of racism and sexism.

One by one, the chili queens had to close up shop, And by the 1940s they had all but vanished from the market squares. 

Their stalls might be gone, But their legacy lives on.

The Chili Queens played an enduring and pivotal role in shaping Tex-Mex cuisine, and the culture of the city of San Antonio.

The Chili Queens filled the plazas of San Antonio for 60 years before they were kicked out! If you’d like to know more, here are just a few of the articles I read while researching this:

The History of San Antonio’s Chili Queens, San Antonio Magazine

San Antonio Chili Queens: The Story Behind Their 60-year Reign, Texas Standard

The Chili Queens of San Antonio, Hidden Kitchens, NPR

a drawing from the San Antonio Daily Express in 1894 depicting a Chile Queen with a sly look on her face and a cigarette dangling from her lips
She’s so rad, I want to know her

“They are ‘good fellows,’ these ‘chile queens,’ and are able and willing to talk on any subject that may be named from love to law. As a general rule they are bright, bewitching creatures and put themselves to much trouble to please their too often rowdy customers. Every class of people who come to this city visit the places and partake of their piquant edibles.”

~ San Antonio Daily Express, 1894

At this harrowing moment when unabashed white supremacists have seized the reins of power in my country, and are trying to sell our populace on harmful racist lies about who belongs here, it feels important to remember and uplift stories like this. The Chili Queens are Americans. They are America; they are us. They brought us so much, and they should be remembered and honored for their contributions to our cuisine and our culture.

A reminder! This newsletter is free for everyone, but if you want to, you can toss a few bucks my way each month to help me keep the newsletter going. Just go here and click on “Upgrade Subscription.”

Shameless Self-Promotion:

I got to spend an afternoon playing with risograph printing at Sara Varon’s place again! This time we made Valentine’s Day cards. Mine ended up being a li’l spicy! ^_^

A riso-printed card in red and sunflower yellow that reads "You're Super Hot" and has drawings of 9 of the world's hottest Super-Hot pepper varieties
The riso-printed Super Hot cards in red and sunflower yellow , and red and fluorescent pink.

They’re blank on the inside so you can write your steamy love letters to your Valentine. ^_^ I printed a very small run of both yellow and pink versions, so get them while they’re hot!

What I’m Into Lately:

I have started reading A Psalm for the Wild-Built by Becky Chambers. I think it’s possible that I read a little too much horror, and I want to branch out a bit. So I am embarking on a very unofficial project to read my favorite people’s favorite books. I’m asking good friends what their favorite books are, keeping a list, and tossing them in my library queue. This one was suggested by my friend Beck! I’m only a quarter of the way in, but the book is building a really quietly beautiful world so far, and I’m hooked already.

What Toki’s Into Lately:

He’s following those sunbeams around the house all day.

a fluffy orange and white cat luxuriating in a sunbeam
In his chiaroscuro era

Preorder Let’s Make Cocktails!My PortfolioShop Shirts and StuffShop Books and Prints

A row of cartoon food drawings

Read more:

  • January 26, 2026

    Recipe: Chili

    Hot and spicy chili to warm your bones on snowy winter nights

    Read article →
  • January 12, 2026

    Tacos Al Pastor

    A brief history of my favorite taco

    Read article →
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