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January 12, 2026

Tacos Al Pastor

A brief history of my favorite taco

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Did you know that this amazingly flavorful variety of taco only came about because of immigration?

In the late 1800s and early 1900s, many Lebanese families made their way across the Atlantic to settle in Mexico.  They were fleeing the severe food shortages, religious discrimination and political oppression they faced under the Ottoman Empire.   They brought recipes and cooking techniques with them, including the vertical shawarma spit.    Lamb wasn’t a popular meat in Mexico at the time, and beef didn’t roast as well on the rotisserie, but pork was an excellent substitute.   Served initially on pita bread, and later the more locally available tortillas…  …these tacos árabes became what we now know as tacos al pastor : tender pork marinated in garlic, cumin, clove, chili pepper, achiote paste, and pineapple, and often other spices too.
The pork is sliced thinly, stacked, and grilled to tender perfection on a shawarma style rotisserie called a trompo.   I love to order tacos al pastor at different taquerias to just see how different chefs change up the spices or the marinade.  This is my favorite taco style. The flavors are sweet, spicy, savory and tart all at once!  And it only exists because Lebanese communities displaced from their homeland  were welcomed in a new country, where they safely found a new place to live and flourish and to call home.

Tacos al pastor are my go-to taco order at any of the excellent taquerias in Chicago. Every place does it slightly differently, but the spice blends are always interesting, the flavors always bold and complex, and they always make me extremely happy.

I’m not sure when I learned about the origin of al pastor, but I remember thinking that it made a lot of sense. So many of my favorite foods have stories like this, stories about people leaving one home and finding a new one, and adapting old recipes to a new place: things like chop suey, tempura, tikka masala, banh mi (and klobásníky!), dishes that only exist because a group of people left one place and landed in a different one. Many of these dishes came about because of colonialism, of course! But the resulting fusion is still fascinating to me, and usually still delicious.

It’s something that’s been on my mind a lot in recent weeks, as more horrifying news about violent ICE agents continues to pour in from Minneapolis, Portland, New Orleans, and my own city. My family wouldn’t be in America today if my Czech ancestors hadn’t envisioned a better life across the ocean, and hadn’t been allowed to settle here safely. I imagine many of you reading this right now have similar stories in your families. I still think the vast majority of Americans believe that immigrants belong here; that immigrants make us a better, stronger, happier and more prosperous country. And they bring delicious food with them!

Shameless Self-Promotion:

So I finally set up a way for people to pay for this newsletter! It’s pay-what-you-want, and it will remain completely free for anyone who doesn’t want to pay anything. If you do want to support it, you can go here and click “upgrade subscription” and change the amount to anything you want.

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What I’m into lately:

I have been reading I Am Behind You by John Ajvide Lindqvist (the writer behind the excellent Let the Right One In) and it’s fascinating and eerie and bizarre. I’m not quite to the end yet (and it’s a long one), but I’m finding the characters and their backstories extremely compelling; something in the way the stories are doled out remind me a bit of when the TV show Lost was at its very best. It seems like it’s the first in a trilogy, but I can’t tell if the other two have been translated into English yet or not! I’m interested to see how he wraps the story up, and how much of the mystery gets explained.

What Toki’s into lately:

I got a better photo of him tunneling into his blanket nest! Toki’s advice to you is to spend as much time as you can wrapped in a cozy blanket.

a small orange and white cat nestled in a warm red blanket

My portfolio siteBooks, prints, and original artShirts, totes, stickers and more

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Read more:

  • September 1, 2025

    A Bit About Klobásníky

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    Read article →
  • July 21, 2025

    Recipe: Vietnamese Cold Noodle Salad

    Here’s a quick recipe for the cold rice noodle salad I mentioned in the last newsletter! You will win friends with this salad. I love the versions of this...

    Read article →
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