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May 27, 2025

Recipe: Seafood Stock (for Cioppino)

hand lettered title that reads "I Think You're Sauceome" with a cartoon drawing of a peapod

Niles makes a killer cioppino. Cioppino is a hearty seafood and tomato base stew that originated in the Italian immigrant community in San Francisco around the late 1800s. Cioppino is the kind of dish that’s emblematic of one of my very favorite kinds of Food Stories. It’s a dish that came about because of a meeting of different cultures and traditions, a migrant population adapting old recipes to a new location and new ingredient base. It’s also absolutely delicious!

Niles was born in the bay area, and grew up with this dish, and in the two decades that he and I have been together, he’s made it many times. It evolves and changes and gets better every time. We had some friends over last weekend (hi, Theo and Mary!!) to test some cocktail recipes, and Niles made a huge pot of cioppino for us, and it was his very best yet.

It’s a long recipe, though! So we’ll start with the day ahead of time, when Niles made his own seafood stock for the base.

cioppino 1:  Seafood stock  Niles is making cioppino again!  we're starting a day ahead of time by making seafood stock.  every time we make shrimp for dinner, we save the shells and put them in the freezer for this. You can also just shell any shrimp or crab you're planning on putting in your cioppino and use the shells now.   INGREDIENTS 4-6 cups crab and/or shrimp shells  1 tbsp olive oil 1/2 yellow onion, diced 1 stalk celery, chopped 1 small carrot, chopped 1 tablespoon tomato paste 4-6 cups water 1/2 cup white wine 10-15 whole black peppercorns 1-2 sprigs fresh parsley 1-2 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1/2 tsp dried thyme 1/2 tsp fennel seeds 1-2 bay leaves salt to taste  heat 1 tbsp of olive oil in a dutch oven over medium heat.  add the diced onion, chopped celery and carrot and cook while stirring for 5-6 minutes, until the veggies are soft but not browned. turn heat to low, and add the shrimp/crab shells to the pan. compress the shells with a potato masher to break them into smaller pieces and reduce the volume a bit. add 1 tbsp tomato paste, and stir until everything's evenly coated. now, turn the heat back up to medium. and cook, stirring constantly, until it's slightly browned. pour in enough water to cover everything by 1 inch. don't stir!  turn the heat up slightly, and bring the water to a simmer.  just as it starts to bubble, turn the heat down to medium low. try to keep it at a very slow simmer. cook at this lazy simmering state, uncovered, for about an hour. check it occasionally: if any foam rises to the surface, skim it off and discard. after it's been cooking for an hour, add 1/2 cup white wine, peppercorns, fennel, parsley, thyme, and bay leaves. bring everything back to a slow simmer, and let it cook uncovered for another half hour skim off any more foam that rises to the surface. remove from heat, and add salt to taste, and let everything cool for about a half hour. remove and discard the larger solids,  then strain through a double layer of cheesecloth to remove all the tiny bits. if it looks cloudy, you can always strain it a second time.  use immediately, or put in a jar to refrigerate or freeze!

Phew! Even just the seafood stock ended up being a longer recipe than I anticipated. You do not have to make your own seafood stock for cioppino, but it’s pretty easy to do, and you can make it as rich and decadent as you want.

Tune in next week for the actual cioppino recipe using this stock as a base! If you’d like a preview, here’s a recipe comic I made of Niles’s cioppino from TWELVE YEARS AGO. The new recipe will be much more complex and evolved, but this will make for a fun comparison! (Also, I can’t believe I was using “Let’s Make” as a recipe comics title all the way back in 2013!)

A very old cioppino recipe comic
THIS IS FROM 2013. IT IS SO OLD. HOW IS THIS COMIC SO OLD. HOW AM I SO OLD.

Upcoming Things:

I will be exhibiting at CAKE Chicago in June! I will also be at the Wisconsin Book Festival Fall Celebration in Madison in October!

Hey Sarah, how’s the book going:

UGH. OKAY. Here’s the deal. The publisher asked for a version of the manuscript to send to the proofreaders (with at least pencils of each page) by early July, so I’m adjusting how I’m working on this. Instead of drawing outlines and color for 10-12 pages a week, I’m trying to complete outlines only for 22-24 pages a week. Then I should be able to turn that version of the manuscript in by the very end of June, and spend July and August just working on colors. It’s an adjustment, but it’s fine. It’s probably better to work that way anyway, and I did manage to outline 24 pages last week, so I’m still on target.

What I’m into lately:

I gotta be honest, I DFN’d Staircase in the Woods. It had all the elements that should have worked for me, but I just wasn’t connecting with it. Back to the library you go, to wait for a woman of less discriminating taste. Anyway, I’m just starting Birds Art Life by Kyo Maclear for my book club. It’s a memoir about urban birdwatching, which I also enjoy! I’m a big fan of the Merlin app; it has a great sound ID that I use all the time to identify bird calls near me. I’m also listening to the audiobook of A Head Full of Ghosts by Paul Tremblay, one of my very favorite horror novels of all time. I’ve read it several times now, and I notice excellent new details every time.

What Toki’s into lately:

Sara Varon got Toki this adorable little catnip-filled toy and he’s been happily demolishing it.

 a fluffy orange and white cat clutching a little catnip filled tiger toy
I give it about a week before it’s just shredded bits of yarn
A row of cartoon food drawings
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