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August 11, 2025

Let's Talk About Kolaches

hand lettered title that reads "I Think You're Sauceome" with a cartoon drawing of a peapod

My dad’s family immigrated to the U.S. from what was Czechoslovakia at the time. His father’s family came from Kolín originally, and his mother’s family came from outside of Brno. We don’t keep a lot of Czech customs in our family, but the one thing we have kept is kolaches.

Let's Talk about Kolaches: For the past year or two I’ve been working on a mini comic about kolaches.   The work has been off and on - I tend to put it on the back burner in favor of other projects  A Kolache is a type of Czech filled pastry  My grandmother used to make them when I was little.   They can be filled with sweet farmers cheese, poppy seed, or a fruit filling  Sadly, my grandmother never taught me how to make them,   but I've been messing around with her recipe for the last year or so  Trying to perfect the dough has meant lots of different batches, and lots of opportunities for different fillings.   I started out traditional: Sweet farmers cheese  Apricot jam Strawberry  Plum  Poppyseed  But gradually experimented with other ideas Raspberry cream cheese Pumpkin spice fromage frais  Homemade Pawpaw jam  And this weekend I made a batch with some ube jam  Oooofffmg ube is great in these  On the one hand, what would my Czech ancestors think of ube kolaches  On the other hand:   I bet these would be incredible with nai Huang bao style egg custard Oooh! Or a pandan cream  Hear me out: crab rangoon kolaches  Now you’ve gone too far.
(I’m only kind of joking about crab rangoon kolaches. Imagine them filled with puffy whipped cream cheese, a little imitation crab and scallion, and drizzled with Thai sweet chili sauce. I think it could work!)

If you don’t live in a place where a lot of Czech immigrants settled, you might not have heard of these pastries! Even in Chicago, most people think I’m talking about Polish Kołaczki (which are also delicious). But Czech kolaches are their own thing, they’re a yeasty, brioche-y dough, filled with fruit, or sweet cheese, or poppy seed paste, or whatever delicious thing you have on hand, and usually sprinkled with a streusel-like topping called posypka.

I tried to make my grandmother’s recipe a few times many years ago, and they came out miserably. At the time I figured I just wasn’t good at baking, and stopped trying. Then, I got the contract for Let’s Make Bread! I knew I had to bake my way through every recipe in that book in order to draw them well. I was terrible at first, but slowly gained skill and some decent instincts about working with dough. When I finished drawing that book, I decided to try to make kolaches again. I still wasn’t great at first! But over a few batches, I improved a lot. I’ve also tweaked the recipe to adjust to my own taste and preferences, and now I feel pretty confident making these. When I was at Seafood City several weeks back, I bought a jar of ube jam specifically for this purpose.

a closeup of a few ube-filled kolache pastries cooling on a rack
The weekend’s ube kolaches!

ANYWAY. My kolache recipe is coming soon, I promise. Give me a week or two to adjust the recipe for public consumption, and I’ll post it here.

How’s the book going, Sarah:

182/192 pages done!!! Only ten pages left! I should have finished coloring last week, but I spent some time placing all my art files into the indesign layout so my bartender friend Mark could review it; I also spent time reviewing the proofreader edits. Now that those tasks are done, coloring the last ten pages should be quick work.

Upcoming things:

I have actual dates for the Wisconsin Book Festival’s Spring Celebration in Madison! I will be discussing Let’s Make Bread! on Friday, October 24 at 6 PM at Madison Central Library, Community Room 302. Save the date!

What I’m into lately:

I found a black swallowtail caterpillar in my potted parsley! I decided I wanted to witness the mysteries of nature up close, so I made it a little terrarium. We have named it Sheila. Sheila has tripled in size monching her way through the parsley cuttings I bring her. Sheila shed her entire skin once and then turned around and ate it!! Sheila’s kind of gross. I’m enjoying her company, though. She eats parsley like a cartoon character eats corn on the cob.

a plump black swallowtail caterpillar clinging to a small stick surrounded by parsley leaves
Sheila in the little improvised caterpillar house

What Toki’s into lately:

Getting those good good chin scratchies that he so richly deserves.

a fluffy orangd and white kitty getting his well deserved chin scratchies

A row of cartoon food drawings
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