Though both of my parents are Jewish, I was raised celebrating both Christmas and Hanukkah (and its various spelling variations, but I prefer the silent “chhhhhhh”) because it’s fun and we like all the foods. 

I don’t remember making latkes with my parents as a kid. However, my paternal grandmother, Cele, made them every once in a while. 

On the occasions we didn’t celebrate Hanukkah at her house in Cedarhurst, Long Island, I distinctly remember her coming over to our house for Christmas. On the rare occasions the two holidays overlapped, we ate latkes by the tree. Instead of the traditional star or angel, we topped ours with a tin foil-covered bagel nestled between felt doves with wire claws that wrapped around the top branches to hold them in place. I like to think the overall effect was symbolic of world peace—our New York Jewishness paired with the spirit of peace on earth. Of course doves are related to pigeons, and in real life they’d peck each other to death fighting over the bagel. Well, it’s the thought that counts. 

What was Cele’s recipe? No idea. But when she passed away in 2001 I decided to take on the role of Latke Maven in our family. 

I experimented with many recipes. Having never made them before, the first ones I used I followed to the letter, but something was always off—too soggy, too dry, the pancakes fell apart while frying, not potato-ey enough, not enough salt, too heavy, etc. Early on I decided using Yukon Gold potatoes was far superior to Russet, not only because they fried up superbly but also if I scrubbed them enough I didn’t have to peel them since the skin is so thin. Bonus: the skin adds an extra earthy pop of flavor. 

At first I insisted on hand-grating the potatoes and onions like Grandma Cele, who wouldn’t dream of using a Cuisinart. Then I used one to save time and noticed very little difference  except my knuckles stayed intact. Perhaps the latkes look more “authentic” when there are noticeable potato threads. 

But there was always too much liquid. Also, I didn’t love adding flour, baking powder, or matzo meal to thicken the batter. Every recipe I encountered called for it. “This is the best latke recipe!” Yeah, if you like potato-flavored fried hockey pucks… 

Although I admit latkes do need some sort of extra starch to hold their shape when frying. 

I had an idea.

At some point I had the idea to drain the excess batter liquid by squeezing the grated potatoes and onions through cheesecloth, and I noticed that the separated starch from the potatoes would collect in the sink. Why not capture that lovely potato starch in a clean bowl and add it back into the batter?

A--HAAAAAAAA!!!! 

That was the final detail what became the recipe that brings on the kvelling. So I thought I’d share it with you.

This recipe can be made with vegan egg substitute, and is perfect for anyone following a gluten-free diet, but also the satisfying, potato-y crunch doesn’t disappoint anyone who doesn’t. 

For you, I lay out the detailed instructions no one else ever bothers to write down, the ones I wish I’d had when I first started making them decades ago.

Note: I now exclusively use a Cuisinart with the grater attachment. Yes, that weird circular one with the grates that came with the thing, the one you stashed away somewhere and probably forgot about. Go find it. Trust me. The regular one will work just fine but the shreds feel more like what our ancestors made in the old country (by that I mean Lower East Side of Manhattan) simultaneously complaining about the effort while insisting “No, it’s fine. I like doing it. I like cooking for you.”

But you can also hand grate them if fancy kitchen tools are not an option. 

Also, this recipe seems complicated and time-consuming, but honestly it’s not that bad once you get going, and the extra effort is worth it. Start to finish takes maybe an hour with rhythm and focus. Put on some music. I like listening to T. Rex during prep because it’s groovy and Marc Bolan (née Marc Feld) was Jewish. 

Amanda Schuster’s Hanumas Potato Latkes 

Yield: about 10 or so (sometimes there is enough batter for an extra tiny one) medium pancakes

• 5 medium-sized Yukon Gold Potatoes, scrubbed with a vegetable scrubber and water and cut into quarters

• 1 medium white onion, peeled and cut into quarters

• 2 eggs

• enough neutral vegetable oil to cover about a half inch in a good frying pan or cast iron skillet (Cele used good old Wesson canola, but grape seed works great too. Olive is too delicate, even though probably historically accurate.) 

• Kosher salt to taste

• black pepper to taste 

• more cheesecloth than you think you’ll need, cut into at least 3 large squares

• paper towels for draining 

• To serve: applesauce or sour cream or both (personally I prefer the applesauce) 

Places, everyone! Mise en place is especially important for this recipe or you will regret it. 

Cut at least 3 pieces of cheesecloth into large handkerchief-sized squares and set them by the sink. Get out 4 work bowls: a large one, a medium-sized one, a small-ish one (size of a cereal bowl), and one big enough to vigorously beat the eggs without sloshing them over the sides. Add the oil to a deep frying pan or Dutch oven. Keep the area free from pets, children, elderly relatives (they can shout directions you will ignore from across the room if need be) and flammable objects including large sleeves. Take out a large platter or baking sheet and line it with paper towels. Keep the rest of the roll close by. 

If using a Cuisinart or similar appliance, safely set aside the regular blade and replace with the grater attachment, which sits higher on the middle spool thingy. Add the lid, but keep that chute (feed tube) open (oh so that’s what it’s for!) (I know!) and start ‘er up. Through the chute, add a couple of potatoes and part of the onion and press down with the food pusher piece as you go. It will grate real nice. 

You might get some chunks caught in the blade on top and they’ll just spin around. The machine doesn’t work without the lid, so you can safely turn it off, take the lid off, pick the pieces off the top, put everything back, and keep going until the chunks are not grate-able (To quote Blondie, which also works as background music, btw: “Yeah she’s so dull, come on, rip her to shreds”). Do this in batches. Add the grated bits to the medium bowl as you go until it’s done. 

If no appliance, well, hate to tell you this, but now you have to hand grate the potatoes and onions into the medium bowl. (It really only takes a few minutes.) Watch the knuckles!  

Turn the heat on under the pan to medium-high to start the oil going. It needs to be very hot. 

Put the small bowl in the sink. Using the cheesecloth, add a handful of the grated bits, gather the edges, and squeeze the middle into the small bowl. This is messy, but worth it. Keep going until most of the liquid is out. Add the squeezed veg to the large bowl and repeat until it’s all drained. You might go through 2-3 pieces of the cheesecloth if it tears. 

Now there is starch collected in the bowl with the drained potato-onion liquid. Pour out the liquid and add the starch (it sticks to the bottom) to the potatoes and onions in the large bowl. 

Beat the eggs until frothy. Mix them with the potatoes, onions, salt (don’t be shy, a lot goes a little way), and pepper.

The oil should now be quite hot. Gather some batter in your hands and make a pancake. (Alternatively, you can use a ladle, but I never do). Gently nestle in the oil. Repeat until a few are going, but don’t overcrowd the pan. You will be working in batches. At this stage, you might need to press them down with a metal spatula to flatten them. 

Do not walk away from the pan under any circumstances. 

When they start to smell potato-y, which will be soon (like 2 - 3 minutes) carefully lift one latke up to check for color. If golden brown (should be by now), gently flip it over, trying not to spatter oil. Repeat with the others. 

Note: they will not be in synch. Don’t fret about this. Just flip them when necessary. Making yummy latkes is not about time, it’s about quality. 

When Side 2 is golden brown, transfer the pancakes onto the paper towel-lined surface. Cover with additional paper towels to blot the oil.

Repeat with the next batch. This batch always cooks more quickly so pay close attention and don’t let it burn. Adjust the heat if necessary. 

After draining and blotting, they’re ready! Big mazel! 

You can either keep them warm by heating them on a sheet pan in a low oven or serve immediately. 

Additional notes:

The latkes can be fully prepared and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days, then reheated on a baking sheet in the oven for about 10-15 minutes at 350 degrees F. 

They can also be frozen and reheated (obviously takes longer) whenever. I like to make some extra to have on hand for New Year’s Day breakfast with smoked salmon and leftover bubbly. 

If you have an air fryer, use this instead of the oven. 

Happy and merry all the things! 

--A

* Latkes are potato pancakes fried in oil. They are traditionally eaten during the Jewish Festival of Lights or Hanukkah to commemorate the miracle of oil burning for eight days during the Maccabean Revolt and rededication of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem.

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