Hiking this week was a little like that proverb, “If you want to go fast, go alone, if you want to go far, go together”. Except hiking with Biscoff again, I do both. Going far, fast. We continue to crush 30s this week, but instead of hiking from dawn to dusk, we make it to camp by late afternoon and luxuriate in the free time. For the most part, miles fall away gently and easily as soon as my feet hit the soft earth, like the petals of a late-spring flower.

The easier terrain helps a little, but more than that, just knowing I’m not alone helps a lot. We walk in lockstep without really trying; most times I have to listen hard to hear him behind me. Our feet strike the ground on the same beat.

When things are bad we commiserate and when the views are good we can appreciate them in comfortable silence. My injuries of the past section are mostly healed, and save for a few scrapes, this is the first time in 1,200 miles I have no major physical complaints. Despite the less dramatic scenery, this section has been pretty great.

6/22 My brother meets me in Tahoe after a long day into town. I see my first bear of the trail outside the South Lake Tahoe Whole Foods, eat a huge burrito, and do my best to recover with the hotel’s sauna and foam roller.

6/23 I arrange to meet Biscoff and Eddie near Truckee so I can hike with them again. We meet Eddie at the Donner Ski Ranch, where he is drinking a 40oz beer they give out free to all hikers.

For Biscoff, who is sober, and electing to hike and not drive the 4 miles to Donner Pass, we bring nonalcoholic beer and Dr. Pepper, our tramily’s soda of choice. We struggle to herd Eddie through the post office to send gear home, get lunch in Truckee, and before long head back to trail where we do a quick 10 miles and camp on a beautiful windswept saddle with open views.

6/24 Just like old times, Biscoff and I wake up early and hike out together, doing 30 before 3pm. We had to leave Eddie behind; he has to wait in Sierra City to pick up a package. We cross the Yuba River and after a long, hot climb, camp on another open ridge with great views. I go to bed before 6pm since we got into camp so early and I am tired from the miles.

6/25 The terrain in Norcal is very green and forested so far. Even where it has burned, there are beautiful wildflowers everywhere.

The trail finally becomes more soft dirt than rock. We do 35 miles and call it a day relatively early again, unsure if we will reach town tomorrow or the next day. Biscoff ominously warns the next day will be hard, I brush it off as just more complaining. Of course, he’s right. But I remain blissfully unaware.

6/26 From the first few miles, things are already difficult. Hundreds of downed trees in this section from a wildfire some years before makes us progress at a relatively glacial pace. The griping begins around 6am and runs continuously under our breath. Worse, when we descend to lower elevation, we see a jungle of huge poison oak bushes overhanging the trail. Unavoidable. It covers our clothes and gear.

The one highlight of the day, we spot a river otter in the Feather River. I didn’t even know those were native to California. I feel lucky to have seen it swimming around playfully. I wish I was the otter.

Instead I climb over downed trunk after trunk into more bushes of poison oak. It’s hot, we are covered in dirt, we have a 3,000ft climb ahead. Nevertheless we pull through, finishing 34 miles by late afternoon. I hail a ride from a local trail angel who is nice enough to specially bring Biscoff vegan food since he can’t have the dinner they’re serving to the rest of the hikers at the festival. The generosity of people here is astounding. Even on the worst days, the trail provides.

The women who picked us up also help us do laundry when we run out of options. They are seriously awesome. Quincy, a very small town, nevertheless has a small Gay Pride festival which I happen to be here in time for and attend for a little while. It’s cute and I get a tiny pride flag that I use to make a patch on my backpack.

Soon, I will leave the Sierra and enter the Cascades, my first time visiting that range. The next few towns are even smaller, so that will also be an adventure. I’ll keep you posted.

Mac

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