Dec. 6, 2024, 4:31 p.m.

Rethinking Water in Sustainable Cosmetics

Formulating the future

Dear ,

Last week, I had an intriguing call with Hilde from Supzero. We talked about Zero Waste cosmetics, and the topic of waterless formulations came up. It’s a big focus for her, but for me? It’s barely on my radar.

That realisation had me thinking. Waterless products have a list of sustainable pros (see my note on waterless formulations). But still, I hardly make them. Why don’t I? The answer has been sitting quietly in the background for years.

First, I don’t love them. I’ve tested all kinds of solid products—soap bars, shampoo bars, and everything in between. The results were… underwhelming. Those solid surfactants feel too harsh, and my skin screams for hydration if I only anhydrous products.

As a manufacturer, I was too poor to do it all. Creating solid formulations isn’t just tweaking a formula; it’s overhauling how you work. Different equipment. Different techniques. To go that route, I’d have to break off my long love affair with emulsions—the creamy textures that make me feel like a painter with a perfect palette.

And let’s talk variety. Solid products often rely on a limited set of ingredients. A shampoo bar here, a conditioning bar there—they start to blur together. I’ve always craved more freedom to explore.

So I do use waters. Following NATRUE guidelines, I’ve always opted for hydrosols and juices over plain water. Rose water, chamomile distillates, aloe vera juice—they’re brilliant for adding herbal depth. But they’re also heavy. Shipping aloe vera juice across continents just to tick the “natural” box? That doesn’t sit right with me.

Waterless products aren’t the only way to rethink water use. There’s a bigger question here: does “less” always equal “better”?

It’s a question shaping everything I’m working on right now, especially my book.

I’d love to hear your perspective. Are waterless products the answer, or is there room for a middle ground? Hit reply—I’m curious what you think.

Warm regards,
Priscilla

P.S. Want to brainstorm more? Let’s grab a virtual coffee. Email me at priscilla@priscillarolvers.eu, and let’s chat.

You just read issue #4 of Formulating the future. You can also browse the full archives of this newsletter.

Share on LinkedIn Share via email
LinkedIn priscillarolvers.eu
This email brought to you by Buttondown, the easiest way to start and grow your newsletter.