Week 4: Desolate Beauty
Thanks for joining me on my trip along the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route from Whitefish, MT, to Antelope Wells, NM. I'll be sending this newsletter about once a week. It will be in a narrative journal format with a few pictures. To see more pics, please check out my Instagram account.
Day 22: Pinedale to Lander Creek Camp
The road out of Pinedale was flat and took us back into desolate country filled with sagebrush, pronghorns, and wind. Water sources and shade were getting scarcer, both of which, combined with headwinds, made the riding harder than expected. It was fun to find a huge flock of sheep blocking the road along with the usual cows.
Our dispersed campsite for the night was actually quite nice. Lander Creek meanders between two large granite outcroppings and there were some nice level, grassy spots beside the creek. We just had to watch out for the cow patties. After climbing one of the granite rocks, I saw the perfect little oxbow in the creek which had a great spot for my tent. The sky clouded over in the evening and the wind howled, but no rain ever fell.
Day 23 & 24: Lander Creek Camp to Atlantic City and rest day
I woke to cattle lowing in the distance, poked my head out of the tent and watched a pronghorn moseying by looking for some palatable greens. The next 30 miles of riding brought us along and over the Continental Divide with sweeping basin views to either side. Shortly before the day's destination, the ghost town of South Pass City appeared at the bottom of a steep creek valley. We stopped for a little walking tour through the old buildings of the former mining town.
Atlantic City is hidden in a little creek valley three miles farther. The Miner's Grubstake is one of those saloons that makes you pause inside the door for a moment to let your eyes adjust to the dimness. The staff was very down-to-earth and welcomed us in. Besides the restaurant and bar, they act as a community hub and a place for CDT thru-hikers and GDMBR cyclists to receive packages and stock up on a few supplies.
Lodging for the night was provided by Wild Bill's Custom Knives & Guns Bed & Breakfast. Guests stay in small cabins and get amenities such as laundry, showers, a hot tub, cake & ice cream before bed, and all you can eat pancakes for breakfast served in a refurbished 1800's military fort messhall. In order to keep from getting too far ahead of my schedule, I stayed an extra day.
Sadly it was here that Mikey and Tricia had to depart from the route and head home. Howard also pressed on ahead without taking a rest day.
Day 25: Atlantic City to A&M Reservoir
I've been somewhat dreading the Great Divide Basin in the Red Desert for a while now. Tales of scorching sun, unrelenting headwinds, and dried up water sources were heard from some northbound Dividers. Luckily, my particular experience was quite the opposite. I started at sunrise in an attempt to beat the heat and winds with twice as much water as I normally carry. By noon I was 60 miles in and loving every pedal stroke. The skies were partly cloudy which kept the heat down and the light winds were pushing me from behind. Plus, the route was relatively flat compared to most days I've ridden thus far. The vast emptiness of the Red Desert was stark and beautiful. Many animals and birds made appearances including wild horses which was a first encounter for me.
By two o'clock I reached A&M Reservoir which was my planned camping destination. I could have gone a little further, but this was the last water source until Rawlings which was another 55 miles away with no good camping opportunities in between. I set up my tent and relaxed for the afternoon in the breeze by the small reservoir.
Day 26: A&M Reservoir to Rawlins
After dark at the reservoir the coyotes and the wind started howling. A rain shower passed over. The skies were still cloudy when I set out toward Rawlins. Only 14 miles of dirt roads remained before turning onto a quiet paved road with tailwinds pushing me along at 20 mph.
The last 15 miles brought me out of the Red Desert, onto the shoulder of a highway, over the Continental Divide, and into the windy city of Rawlins, WY.
Day 27 & 28: Rawlins to Brush Mountain Ranch and rest day
My plan for the day had been to ride about 55 miles on gravel to an area known as Aspen Alley near the Colorado border. As I made my way in the morning I found that the once gravel road had been paved. I cruised along and made it to my goal by lunchtime. Finding forests again was an uplifting sight, thus I revised my plans.
The road past Aspen Alley had a long, 15 mile descent which brought me across the border of Colorado. A popular stopping point with Dividers is the Brush Mountain Ranch. They provide affordable lodging, meals, and a nice place to relax for passing cyclists. The lodge was another 15 miles up a gravel road, so I pushed my tiring body the remaining distance.
I was pleasantly surprised to find my friend Howard taking a zero day. There were a few other cyclists hanging around as well. The caretaker, Kirsten, greeted me with a hug and ice water. After I rested for a bit, I got the lodge tour and chose a room to sleep in. Kirsten cooked up a pizza in her outdoor oven for me and I lounged on the huge porch until dark.
This morning Kirsten made us breakfast, then Howard and I took a hike to find a nearby waterfall. The rest of the today has been spent lounging on the porch with some newly arrived cyclists. Other than the set room cost, the food and drinks are provided in exchange for a donation. Laundry, showers, and a cyclist gear exchange all make Brush Mountain the ideal place to stop and rest.
The numbers so far:
- 1,202.3 miles
- 4 states
- 14 Continental Divide crossings
- 9,655' highest elevation