After one last Cambodian coffee with the folks in Siem Reap, we parted ways and headed to the airport.

We had a layover in Singapore where we had - you guessed it - more coffee (or kopi as the locals say). So far we haven't passed through Singapore without a stop at Old Chang Kee, and we don't plan on breaking that streak any time soon.

Chapter 1: Bali

We touched down in Bali, Indonesia late in the evening, so it was tough to get the lay of the land. Thankfully, our Airbnb send out a nice driver who spirited us away into the mountains, where our rustic little cabin awaited us.

Along the way, we learned that our driver, Adi, was studying tourism in college and lived in the village where we were staying. He anointed us with our very own Balinese names: Wayan and Putu.

It was dark by the time we arrived, so Adi led us down to our cabin (or gladak) and made us some red rice tea. We settled in to the sounds of the forest, and wondered just what we'd gotten ourselves into.

All of our worries were dashed the next morning as we stepped out onto our balcony. We were in...the...forest. It was difficult to imagine being more inside the forest without climbing a tree.

We were surrounded by an expanse of treetops that teemed with life, stretching out toward misty mountains in the distance. The sounds of birds, dogs, roosters, and monkeys accompanied us constantly.

As usual, words don't do it justice!

Just like in Hoi An, we were treated to a daily breakfast by Ibu Pina, the property housekeeper. Having fresh fruits, eggs and coffee served in front of a mountain view is just about the height of luxury.

During our first breakfast, we heard a tentative meowing at the gate. Chupa the family cat - a long-haired fluff ball - had made our porch a regular stop on her daily patrol.

Shruti rented a scooter and made regular use of it, zipping up and down the steep streets of Jatiluwih. We visited the local rice terraces several times, which were being actively harvested during our visit. Despite having a tourist-pocked main street, the area was very much a small village where the locals live by the fruits of their labor.

We passed many small temples and learned that each belongs to a different family. Likewise, the rice terraces themselves are parceled into plots that each family must subsist on. The local cash crop is actually not rice, but coffee.

We ate at a few different local restaurants in the area. One of the highlights was eating in a little gazebo overlooking a pond and the rice fields, with fish and geese for company. After lunch, Nate even whipped out his laptop and worked from here.

The nearest town with a fresh produce market was a 20 minute scooter ride up and down winding roads, where we picked up veggies to cook with and fresh roadside lumpia to snack on.

Near the end of our stay in Bali, we rode down the mountain: a 1.5 hour journey on the scooter that Shruti managed with Nate clinging to her back.

Our destination was Ubud, a bustling town to the south where we met her childhood friend Dhruva and his wife Ragini. They were also visiting Bali on vacation, so we had dinner and wandered the local art market for a while. Nate, who was apparently missing Southern California, had quesadillas.

We capped off the mountains of Bali by a trip to the Yeh Hoo Waterfall. After a steep hike downhill, we were rewarded with a roaring waterfall and crystal clear cold water.

In the end, we were sad to leave another magical place. We felt like we'd discovered a little secret hidden away in the mountains. Chupa would have to make do without us while we headed for our next destination.

Chapter 2: Lombok

Lombok is another island in Indonesia, just east of Bali. Shruti's friend (and former coworker) Nadia lives there with her husband Alex, where they've built Kmari Villas. Coincidentally, Nate also has a connection with the pair: one of Alex's coworkers is married to a high school friend of Nate's. Small world!

So we hopped on a little propeller plane and made our way there. The villa turned out to be a luxury oasis with all the creature comforts (and none of the creatures) that we needed.

After our week "off-the-grid" in the mountains of Bali, it was nice to have all those modern amenities we'd taken for granted. We were pleasantly surprised by the weather (pun intended).

While Nate eyed the poolside chair and his unfinished book, Shruti wasted no time finding herself another scooter. Lombok is an up-and-coming sibling to Bali (there’s a bit of healthy competition between the two), with plenty of beaches and water activities.

There's a visible encroachment of upscale restaurants and cafes in town, frequented by a growing cohort of foreigners (ourselves included) strolling the streets.

Many of these spaces are also owned by foreigners, leaving locals to find other ways to capitalize on the tourists.

One enterprising young girl popped up next to our table at a pizza restaurant on our first evening. She came bearing an array of bracelets to sell, but she knew her crowd and warmed us up with a round of Rock-Paper-Scissors and game of Uno. Before we knew it, Raisa had us wrapped around her finger, and she walked off with another sale under her belt.

If you find yourself in Lombok, consider carrying little packs of chocolate milk to give to the local kids. They are really grateful for nutritious snacks.

We marveled at the blue waters of Kuta Beach and Tanjung Aan, where little warungs offered mie goreng, coconut water and Lombok kopi.

In exchange for buying food, we were allowed to use their sunbeds and large beach umbrellas. Nate enjoyed the sun protection while Shruti swam in the ocean looking for fish and corals.

Shruti, Nadia and Alex drove two hours to Pink Beach, where they discovered that the sand isn’t actually as pink as its name suggests, but the water is a beautiful azure. They spent the morning snorkeling, with Shruti excitedly pointing at all the little marine creatures. Nadia and Alex indulged her excitement at being such a water baby.

Shruti and Nadia also went on a few hikes around the villa seeing panoramic views of the islands around Lombok. Nadia introduced us to the community they’ve formed here, and we went on regular trips to So.Nak, a coffee shop run by her friend.

Every beach we visited and every hillside we climbed has a really unique beauty. We spent one sunset at Bukit Merese, a popular spot for locals and tourists to watch the ocean below, surrounded by the most vivid colours in the sky.

Bali and Lombok were two completely different experiences for us. One, a rustic cabin with limited cell services perched on a misty mountain, and the other a luxury villa with friends in a sunny beach town.

We can’t seem to pick a favorite, but we longed for more time in both, and know that we’ll be back in Indonesia again one day.

And now? We’re back in Chennai at Shruti’s parents’ house for a week before we head out to Delhi and Dharamshala for the next month.

Makasi for following along, and see you back here soon!