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March 25, 2026

Greece Lightning

Γεια σας from beautiful Crete!

Last week we flew from Berlin to Athens to Chania (pronounced Hania, which we did not realize until a local told us). Once a Minoan settlement on the west side of Crete, Chania has a lot of Roman, Arab, Venetian, and Turkish influence.

Our home base for the week is a charming loft in the narrow alleys of historic Old Town, right behind a cathedral.

Nate walking through the alleys of Old Town

The first night we got here, we drove our rental car around in circles trying to find a parking spot. One week later, we can now say we’ve become experts in navigating the narrow streets, dodging little cars and littler cats alike.

After unloading our bags and settling in, we walked out and stopped short – the Venetian Harbour was just around the corner!

We ventured out and took it all in properly in the daylight of the next morning, walking to the end of the pier to the Chania lighthouse – the bay on one side, the ocean on the other.

The Chania lighthouse is said to be one of the oldest lighthouses in the world. Originally built in the 16th century by the Venetians, it was used to protect Crete from pirates.

Shruti at the lighthouse

There is so much to love about Chania and its neighbouring towns. Here are our top hits:

  1. The food
    In addition to copious amounts of olive oil, we have been consuming lots of seafood. Fish, squid, crab, cuttlefish, you name it!

    Taverna tip: Don’t order dessert, because you’ll always receive a sweet surprise on the house at the end of the meal, a testament to Greek hospitality. We’ve enjoyed every single taverna meal here and all the different complimentary desserts (and raki!).

  2. The markets
    Chania frequently has local markets through the week. Shruti went to one in Nea Chora and another in Minoos during the week we were here, picking up fresh veggies, fruits, and so many olives!

    Oranges and lemons
    Olives!
    And snails that we haven’t tried…yet
  3. The cats
    Chania is ruled by cats and they’re totally fearless. We noticed all the (human) residents taking care of them – leaving bowls of food and water outside their houses. Nate almost took one friendly guy home, but remembered that he wouldn’t be able to travel through customs.

  4. The ocean
    Even though we’re here during a stormy shoulder season, it feels calming to be so close to the ocean. On some days the water is light blue, on others it’s an inky grey. Shruti’s phone has at least 157 photos of the ocean waves at different angles.

  5. The history
    Maybe it’s because we based ourselves in Old Town, or perhaps all of Greece feels like this, but every time we turn a corner, there’s a preserved ruin dating back to ~1500BC.

    Walking through the alleys of Chania, exploring the Roman ruins in the olive groves of Aptera, and visiting the monastery of Akrotiri (where a monk gave Shruti a freshly baked apple pastry!) has made us feel like we’re traveling back in time.

    Ancient ruins of Aptera

Since we’re here off-season, a lot of the shops and restaurants are closed. We’ve also had more than a few thunderstorms, yet somehow it feels special to us in way that would feel different during a crowded summer.

Avlaki Gorge, Akrotiri
Path to Koules fortress, Aptera

We’re living this week like we’re locals of Chania; enjoying raki at the end of each meal, listening to our neighbours play piano at the kafeneio next door, and eating souvlaki by the sea.


Just yesterday we left Chania, driving 4 hours towards a tiny remote town in East Crete called Myrsini. We’re expecting more rain, but we’re looking forward to exploring this new side of Crete.

We’ll tell you all about it next week!

Bonus content below!

Image #156 of Shruti’s pictures of the sea
Floating shop of shell chimes at the Venetian Harbour
The cat that adopted us in Akrotiri; we nicknamed him Minos
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