Mongers' Choice: Savoie Edition
It is always a good day when one is evaluating the latest releases from Eric Mainbourg and the team at Les Caves d’Affinage de Savoie.
With cellars in both Rognaix and Chambéry, Eric leads a group of master affineurs; sourcing, developing and representing some of the finest cheeses from the region.
All of the cheeses have a very distinct characteristic, one I had never been able to put my finger on. That is, until I visited the caves back in 2023. I have written in length about this experience which you can find on the website (link here). While their Beaufort Chalet D’alpage will remain a consistent tour de force, the cheeses I wish to highlight today are quietly, yet confidently marching up the ranks.
Frontine D’Alpage
Hailing from La Plagne, Frontine sits in a category somewhere between Raclette, Fontina and the infamous Tomme de Savoie. The cheese is made using raw cow’s milk grazing well above 2300m. This altitude is more synonymous with cheeses such as Beaufort or Abondance. These factors lead to a cheese that falls into a category of its own. Subtle, earthy but undoubtably moreish. One may be tempted to cook with a cheese such as this, but I encourage you to let this sit, stand, on its own, without alteration. I don’t play favorites, but if I did…
Abondance Fermier
Abondance, a cheese that does not seem to get a fair shake up against some of the heavyweights in the category. Here’s to hoping this changes.
Our current batches of Abondance come from Gaec La Cascade in Sallanches. Jean Marc Metral, an 8th generation farmer whose family has been producing cheese since 1815, uses all of his own inputs to feed his small herd of Abondance (the breed) cows. The result is a balanced, delicate, yet long lasting cheese. One that relies on the quality of the milk, the integrity of the land.
Frontine is available in small quantities but we will be receiving new stock later this week. Abondance is currently available in abundance. Pun intended.
Cheers,
Jakob
