Jonas Schwaer

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October 11, 2025

Japan Diary Pt. II

D.T. Suzuki Museum in Kanazawa.

My dad and I have been traveling for almost two weeks now. Initially, I thought I would share more frequent diary entries from this journey. However, over the past few days, we’ve experienced many unique and beautiful moments that took some time to process and eventually share more reflective views. On other evenings, I simply didn’t have the energy to write down my thoughts — which is counterintuitive to the idea of daily journaling — but between physical fatigue and the work I’ve had to do at night, it became the one thing I kept pushing from one day to the next.

We’re currently in Kanazawa, often referred to as the “Little Kyoto,” a city located on Japan’s west coast. I’m writing this note from the beautifully designed D.T. Suzuki Museum, a serene space that perfectly invites a moment of quietness and flowing thoughts. I often find myself inspired to write while being in museums or galleries (Nancy sometimes calls me out for being on my phone typing all the time — but it’s really just a constant flow of ideas). The calm and energy of this space make it an ideal creative environment.

Since my last note, we’ve traveled quite a lot — rarely staying more than two nights in one place — covering plenty of ground without ever feeling rushed. Last week, we visited the art islands of Teshima and Naoshima. We were stunned by the harmony between art, architecture, and nature. We spent one night at Benesse House, which was an incredible experience and a level of comfort that helped us fully recover from jet lag. One morning, I went for a run along the coast, surrounded by artworks by Lee Ufan and Walter De Maria, enjoying the rare feeling of jogging completely pain-free, something I’ve been working toward for a while.

After visiting the Noguchi Garden Museum and the Nagare Studio in Takamatsu, we took the Shinkansen to Kyoto last Saturday night. We had read about the rise in tourism, and of course, we’re part of it, but in Kyoto, it felt especially evident. Luckily, we had already seen the most iconic sights during our last trip two years ago, so this time we explored different parts of the city, following recommendations from local friends

On our last evening, we visited Masayo at her restaurant, Farmoon. Coincidentally, it was a full moon that night, and perhaps there was something spiritual in the air that made the experience even more special. We first met Masayo in Arles, where she hosts a yearly culinary experience at Vague Gallery. We’ve always admired her creativity and incredible cooking, and we couldn’t wait to see her in her own space. Together with her daughter and a small team, Masayo prepared an outstanding meal for us. The restaurant seats only six to eight guests, with four counter seats. Next to us sat a woman traveling with her young family and her father — that evening, she was having a night out with him. We instantly connected over the shared experience of traveling with our dads :)

The next morning, we picked up our car and drove toward Fukui. I’ll share more about that part of the journey soon.

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