Issue 14 - closed doors
A possibly weekly email about what's been going on in my brain
19 - 25 February 2023
I am now safely ensconced on Ishigaki island, almost as far down the Japanese archipelago as you're able to go, marking the end of my time in The North and starting the second leg of my journey across the southern islands. When I was first planning this trip, one of the key experiences I wanted was to see Japan in the snow. It's safe to say I've done that and then some. I don't think I ever imagined how much snow I'd see, and though it hasn't caused any logistical issues, I'll be glad to see the back of it. Togging up in multiple layers, cycling my YakTrax on and off, constantly juggling hats, scarves and gloves; tasks never so onerous as to spoil things, but I'm looking forward to travelling a little lighter now. Only I still have to lug all the layers and woolens around with me, but day-to-day things should be easier right?
Nyuto onsen
When I described Noboribetsu as "up in the mountains" last issue, I underestimated what that phrase could mean until I travelled to Nyuto (meaning, ahem, "nipple" due to the milky white hot spring waters). A short hour on the train from Yokote, it's an additional 35 minute bus journey, followed by - if you've phoned the ryokan to say when you're arriving - a further fifteen minutes in a private mini-bus down canyons of snow at least a metre and a half high on either side. My lodgings, Yama no Yado, wasn't as off the beaten path as it's "parent", Tsuru no Yu - a further 20 minute drive up the mountain(s) - but still far enough out the way to feel isolating.
That's both to its benefit and detriment: there are plenty of hot springs to enjoy and relax in, but with the sheer volume of snow outside and inclement weather common, there's not much scope for exploring. So dipping into and out of the onsen it was then, tough times. Being so out of the way meant that both breakfast and dinner were provided, both of which were served in a room I initially thought was on fire due to all the smoke, but soon realised it was because each had it's own fire pit and grill (so in a sense it was a little bit on fire). The first evening meal was barbecued meats, the second however introduced grilled whole fish which I made a thorough hash of eating - the effort-to-food ratio totally skewed.
The whole ryokan was rustic and lovely but with only space heaters (and the hot springs) to generate any heat, I found myself dashing between oases of warmth, and really having to decide whether going to the bathroom was worth the chill. And of course that heat attracted all kinds of critters with dopey stink bugs and tiny rodents the most common.
The highlight of Nyuto for me wasn't the trip up to Tsuru no Yu and its 350 year old baths - traditional outdoor, mixed gender bathing, alarmingly exposed; but the small outdoor private bath at my lodgings. It had long been dark and was well below zero, but there's something very serene about being in an almost scalding hot bath with snow falling on your face, surrounded by gently illuminated snow drifts.
Aizu Wakamatsu
I'll admit that I was drawn into visiting Aizu Wakamatsu by the likes of glossy YouTube videos, paid for of course by the local tourist board. The reality I knew would of course be different, but the mechanics of getting around the Samurai City didn't really strike me until I got there.
Sure there's plenty to see, but all of it is spread out and if you don't have your own transport or want to walk between them there's the vague promise of a loop bus. The Suehiro Sake Brewery was closest to my hotel so I started there, however I was the only one taking the tour so the kindly staff member very patiently explained - in Japanese - the brewing process, the different tools used, the life of the founder, etc. I picked up maybe 10% of what was said (and that's rounding up). The tasting session afterwards was a little much for 10:30 in the morning, but I felt obliged after the tour guide had been so accommodating with me.
Afterwards was Tsuruga castle, a "mere" twenty minute walk away. It's an impressive reconstruction and the surrounding gardens are lovely to stroll around, however the winning attraction - a full museum topped by a fifth story viewing platform - was closed off for renovation. I did get a complimentary invite to its reopening in September though!
After that somewhat bum note I considered heading towards the samurai mansion and memorial hall but the story behind the Byakkotai gave me pause, and there was still the matter of catching one of the rare loop buses (as yet unseen) there. Instead I opted for Oyakuen garden which, if I'd thought about for a few minutes I'd have realised it being February meant many plants would be... well, let's say charitably "waiting for spring". Another "quick" twenty minute walk later though and there I was, strolling the peaceful but somewhat barren herb garden and ponds.
Food was one of the highlights of Aizu Wakamatsu for me at least, with lunch at a restaurant called Mitsutaya that not only grill things over open coals but also specialise in miso with different pastes covering each of the things on sticks (tofu, herring, konjac etc.). Dinner meanwhile was at a local pizza place where I had a salsiccia & friarielli which is the same pizza I have on my regular TV evenings with my best friend and one I never thought I'd see in Japan; wasn't half bad either!
Nikko
I think I loved Nikko on the taxi journey from the station to my B&B: a gloriously clear and bright afternoon and as we drove by the river you could see the imposingly tall cedar trees surrounding the shrines that the town is famous for. I did have to (politely) wake the taxi driver before I could take that journey though, but as I would find out, his napping is indicative of Nikko's atmosphere. On my original itinerary I didn't even have it down as a stop, and it took some convincing by my travel agent to spend the time here. I'm enormously glad I did, despite the somewhat quirky atmosphere.
On the one hand you have some of the most storied and ornately decorated shrines in all of Japan, drawing in day-trippers from all over, with spoken English and translated signage and menus throughout. On the other hand, because it's primarily a day destination, what few restaurants (rather than cafes) there are don't open very late, if they open at all. Google Maps is all but useless, taking me to places that maybe existed once but not now, or to ones that it said were open but resolutely weren't. And of course, because Nikko is a key tourist destination there's, well, tourists. So by 11am the main shrines are thronging with people from all over, somewhat breaking the spell of seclusion and reverence.
There are of course other things to see not regularly frequented by tourists like the restored Imperial Villa with over 108 rooms and extensive gardens all lovely kept with exhaustive explanations and photographs. Or Chuzenji, a resort town forty minutes by bus up some gnarly switchback roads with a beautiful lake and adjoining gorge and waterfall, but a bit like Cleethorpes in off-season, not a whole lot open or inviting. Two days is certainly enough to exhaust what Nikko has to offer during February, later in the year though I could see it being far too little.
Side note: mental health
I never aimed for my newsletter to be a manicured instagram-filtered snapshot of my time in Japan, but equally no one wants to only read about the unimpressive experiences, the meh places. Which is to say that I'm aware my newsletter is not therapy, so it's not a place to air all of my fears and anxieties and mistakes (so many mistakes). But that’s not to say that I haven’t had them. I feel like there’s been a great weight behind this trip, a pressure to do everything I can do at any given time which isn’t sustainable: it's a marathon not a sprint. But it also means that when I’m sitting idle in my room watching YouTube videos, there’s that voice saying that I should be doing something, seeing something, making the most of where I am. It can make things a lot more intimidating because there's a natural background friction with any interaction when you don’t know the language or the mannerisms, and when you’ve got the morbs, it’s especially difficult to summon up any motivation. I often need to remind myself: sometimes a place just doesn’t have a lot to do, I don’t have to do things or go places if I don’t feel like it, and it’s fine to not be 100% immersed at all times.
10-day itinerary
- 26th Feb - day trip to Iriomote island
- 27th Feb - day trip to Taketomi island
- 28th Feb - transfer to Naha, Okinawa
- 1st Mar - Okinawa
- 2nd Mar - Okinawa
- 3rd Mar - transfer to Kagoshima, Kyushu
- 4th Mar - Kagoshima
- 5th Mar - transfer to Yakushima
- 6th Mar - Yakushima
- 7th Mar - Yakushima
This was hand-crafted by John.