[026] El Capitán
Last time I wrote I was heading to the island of Chiloé. I met my friend Ellie at Santiago airport and we took the short flight down to Puerto Montt,...
[025] To Concón
In Concón I like the mornings best, although the evenings are pretty nice too. The air comes in cool off the Pacific overnight, and my little casita is...
[024] Rio & Home
Rio had everything I wanted for my last week in South America. The city is a wonderful buzz of energy, beauty, and life being lived outdoors. I’d like to...
[023] Sao Paolo to Rio
I've taken myself to a Brazilian bakery on Ilha Grande to eat some stodgy goods, and there’s a five year old having a paddy on the next table. Something’s...
[022] The Huayhuash Nearly Killed Me
This isn’t a story of bravery or heroism. There are enough of those out there. And people, friends, are going through much worse than this was for me. But I...
[021] Camino Del Puma
It’s midday on the first day of August and we’re running/foot-skiing/moon-walking straight down the soft pumicey slope of a volcano with fifteen people from...
[020] Around La Paz
It’s been six weeks now since we finished our cycle on the salt flats. Safe to say I’ve fallen behind with writing, so I’m going to do a dump of the last six...
[019] Cycling the Altiplano (Part 2/2)
The thing about geothermal springs is they absolutely stink. I'm still trying to get the sulphur smell out of my clothes from the two nights we spent there....
[018] Cycling the Altiplano (Part 1/2)
I turned 30 in my tent on the Uyuni Salt Flats. The end of a 600km bike ride down the Chilean/Bolivian Altiplano and not where I expected to spend it. If...
[017] A New Decade
Yesterday I turned thirty. It was the final day of a 600km bike ride down the Chilean/Bolivian Altiplano (more to follow…!), and I woke to the sun rising...
[016] Sucre
I set out to write this blog honestly. The good parts, the bad parts. Not like darkest parts of my heart parts. But at least give an honest account of my...
[015] Over Into Jujuy
I’m writing this from a sunny terrace in a small town in Jujuy, North Argentina. There’s a cream llama in the garden and the sprinklers are wetting him. He...
[014] Concón & Valpo
I’m out of Patagonia now. I’m out of my tent and into suburbs of the Chilean middle classes. I left Patagonia as I loaded plates into the dishwasher, padding...
[013] Fishing the Collón Curá
Fly fishing is a simpler activity than it looks. Fish feed on flies which land on the river. The idea is to present to the fish an artificial fly (made from...
[012] Bikepacking Los Siete Lagos
Already on the busy road out of Bariloche I had a smile on my face. I hadn’t been on a bike in such a long time, and the joy of riding returned immediately....
[011] Wet Wet Chile
If there's a theme of the my last two weeks it's definitely wetter. I've gotten into lakes and rivers in a kayak and raft, and I moved 700km north to where...
[010] Patagonia National Park
On the drive into Patagonia National Park we wound along the valley bottom. Farmers held a hand up from their plots as we passed. We stopped to look at the...
[009] The Huemul & El Chalten
The messimessimessi wifi passwords confirmed I was back in Argentina. That, and that fact I’d shown my passport to a man in a small white building at the...
[008] The O Trek, Torres Del Paine
The start of the O Trek is like Glastonbury. People wrestle with backpacks and fret if they’re on the right bus. People should be excited but they look...
[007] Ushuaia
Ushuaia bummed me out at first. It's a funny town with steep streets leading the mountains to the water. Sleek cruise ships drift in and out of the dock...
[006] Buenos Aires
I've been in Buenos Aires a couple days and it's been amazing. The city is vibrant and it's sunny and high twenties. It feels oddly European here. The...
[005] Happy Christmas 2023
Now I have a newsletter with ten/s of subscribers (once you include my mum and dad), I'm able to write a christmas message. I'll be short. I hope your 2023...
[004] The Rainy Lakes
Distance in the Lake District feels greater than anywhere else. The valley opposite so far away, the face of the fells so vast - a great slab of hill. Your...
[003] Summer Holding On
Autumn is truly here. Summer held on for a long time, then let go. I just got back some photos I shot on a sunny day three weeks ago in late October. They...
[002] The Kuststigen Trail
Nothing to do with South America, but I wanted to share with you a recent walking trip I did in Sweden: On the Kuststigen trail I passed more robot...
[001] What's This All About?
In January 2024 I will head to Argentina. I plan for this to be the first of a few countries, taking a couple months to travel up South America depending how...