day 113 fare well
Naomi here, Yesterday we arrived in Bora Bora, today we checked out of the country and left French Polynesia… A quick turnaround, it’s happened so quickly. It’s very easy to focus so much on today and the next destination that the days get away so quickly and all of a sudden it was time to drop off Ellen and Qwalen, our chief engineers and faithful crew and companions for the last couple of months! We have shared many good memories , many a tasty duck meal, and many salty adventures together. Im very lucky to continue our tradition of sailing in various boats at various different locations together, it’s quite cool to have that be your thing together. We,ll remember you with every sunset and clan of the cave bear reference, I never knew you guys were so passionate about that series. Quite a surprise to have all the gendarmerie/checkout procedures finished in 24 hours, although we were almost foiled by the store not having a stamp- I was given some paperwork I had to post to Papeete in order to complete the process and had to scramble to find a store with one. Spent some time wondering if we would have to wait 2 days just to buy a bloody stamp to be able to leave, luckily I won that battle. We made good use of the freshwater tap and we depart with our clean undies and slightly less greasy tea towels fluttering on the lifelines to dry… Now we will put bluebird through her paces, and Wendy too who does struggle to hold a course downwind unfortunately.
Ia orana, Megan here! For the second time in the last week, the rising sun presented us with a motu of striking presence: Bora Bora’s mountainous landscape and lush foliage really fit the tropical island bill. Ra’iatea, which I had been hoping to visit, was unfortunately only a silhouette in passing on our rather hurried departure from French Polynesia. I’ve heard that Bora Bora has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world… unfortunately most of them appear to be owned by resorts. We settled into one mooring only to be chased off by the luxury bungalows nearby. Still, we managed a little snorkel, searching for and unfortunately not finding “sting ray city,” which we’d read about. And had a lovely last sunset and last night with Ellen and Qwalen. Goodbye E&Q! It was a privilege and joy getting to know you and learning so much from you.
Now we’re off again. I felt quite salty, surprisingly, raising the sails and bustling about the boat in the dress I brought for wearing into towns. Plumeria in my braids. I don’t know if it makes the top three, but there is something satisfying about doing boat jobs comfortably in something I wouldn’t typically wear…makes me feel like I really belong or something. A regular. It was also wonderful throwing the wreath we (mostly Miriam) made into the ocean to mark the beginning of our voyage. Here we go! Mauruuru!
Miriam: Off into the night we go! I received the sort of ironic lesson that sailing often holds, describing night watch as such a magical experience and then that very night sitting watch through sideways rain that had me completely drenched and shivering while slowly meandering by Bora Bora waiting for enough light to enter the pass safely. Ah well, another gift of sailing is how it holds me completely in the present and adapting to what is with as much equanimity and grace as possible. Sunrise over the incredible peaks of Bora Bora was truly lovely and the chill night turned quickly to a sweltering day. We got our errands done in record time, wandering the bustling and completely overstimulating main drag buying fruit from roadside vendors and collecting provisions from various stores. I’m glad we found a mooring out on the outside edge of the island for a quiet night of sleep and one last delicious duck dinner and parting glass of wine with our now departed crew members. Seeing Ellen and Qwalen off on the airport ferry was a quick shift; I’m grateful for some sweet adventures and glorious sailing with two dear friends who are so generous in sharing their knowledge and gifts and wish them an easy transition home.
The wreath of foliage and flowers foraged from the roadside was offered to the ocean as a prayer for safe passage once we were out the pass and under sail. Some rousing sea shanties (they really sound best while sailing) carried us through another epic sunset and into a clear, calm night. This will be my first long passage (1700 nautical miles, probably 12 days of nonstop sailing) and I’m curious and excited for the experience.
Jamie here, some very efficient admin done in Bora Bora by the crew. Job tidy and we are off again into the abyss. Super excited for another passage, hopefully with less crashing waves over the cockpit and no torn off solar panels… we have had such an amazing time in French Polynesia it’s fun to reminisce on all the adventures from gambier through to here. It’s been amazing meeting and hanging out with Ellen and Qwalen, thank you for sharing your knowledge and presence,, and for a spare cutlass bearing should we need it! Are we going to catch a fish on this passage? We need to channel our inner Francesco, ex bluebird fisherman. WOD: ambition. Ambition - a desire to achieve! I really liked Tom cruise in ambition impossible II