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May 26, 2025

This week: The Lazybone's Guide to Seed Starting

Hello!

There was a time when I started seeds indoors in March and April under grow lights in little handmade paper pots. Or when I would collect plastic gallon jugs to construct greenhouses for winter sowing (a practice that proved unnecessary and somewhat ineffective for natives, it turns out). Then I switched to an easier winter sowing method, where I seeded open pots of soil in freezing temperatures. When I got tired of the chill, I dampened coffee filters and gently sprinkled seeds in a single layer for refrigerator cold stratification.

Now I am so lazy (or experienced?), I mix seeds with damp sand in a Ziplock bag and store them in the fridge, then plant everything outside. Readers, it’s time to stop being fussy and just plant seeds! Here’s what to do.

Step 1: Pick Seeds That Are Easy to Grow

Great Blue Lobelia and Monarda seedlings
Great Blue Lobelia and Eastern Bee Balm that I started from seed in 2024 and transplanted into my garden this spring.

When you’re shopping for native seeds, read the fine print. Choose seeds that germinate after sowing in a warm location (plant outside in spring) or seeds that say they need X number of days of moist, cool conditions (cold stratification). No need to pick seeds that require scarification (rubbing with sandpaper or nicking with a knife), or a period of cold, a period of warm, and another period of cold to germinate. Just buy those plants in pots instead!

Through my slapdash methods, I’ve successfully grown the following natives from seed (and so can you).

  • Chasmanthium latifolium - River Oats

  • Coreopsis grandiflora - Large Flower Coreopsis

  • Echinacea purpurea - Purple Coneflower

  • Heliopsis helianthoides - Early Sunflower

  • Lobelia siphilitica - Great Blue Lobelia

  • Monarda bradburiana - Eastern Bee Balm

  • Pycnanthemum muticum - Clustered Mountain Mint

  • Rudbeckia hirta - Black-eyed Susan

  • Schizachyrium scoparium - Little Bluestem

  • Zizia aurea - Golden Alexanders

I like to buy seeds from Prairie Moon Nursery or Wild Seed Project, but you can also find packets of Purple Coneflower, Coreopsis, and Black-Eyed Susan at many garden centers.

Step 2: Cold Stratify Seeds that Need It

Seeds cold stratifying in Ziploc bags
The aforementioned Great Blue Lobelia and Bee Balm after chilling in the refrigerator.

If the seed packet says it needs a period of cold, use your refrigerator to mimic nature. All you need is horticultural sand, which can be found in the garden section of your hardware store, and Ziplock bags.

Instructions for cold stratification:

  1. Put two tablespoons of sand in a Ziplock bag labeled with the name of the seed.

  2. Using a spray bottle filled with water, lightly dampen the sand. If you add too much water, add more sand.

  3. Mix the seeds into the sand.

  4. Seal the Ziplock bag and store it in the refrigerator for the specified number of days on your seed packet.

  5. As the due date approaches, check the seeds to see if they’ve germinated. If the seeds are germinated, plant them immediately. If they haven’t germinated, plant them after the specified number of days has passed.

Step 3: Sow Seeds Outside in Pots or a Dedicated Raised Bed

Seeds ready to grow
Who needs a veggie garden when you can grow native grasses instead?

Here’s the thing I’m picky about: don’t sow the seeds directly into your garden. Plant them in large pots filled with potting soil or in organized rows in a raised bed. Why? This makes them easier to identify—you’ll be able to tell the difference between what you planted and weeds. Plus the plant will wind up in the right spot in your perfectly designed garden!

Instructions for sowing seeds outdoors in pots or a raised bed:

  1. Fill the pots with potting soil, or top off the raised bed with fresh potting soil if needed.

  2. Water the soil deeply.

  3. If planting several different kinds of seeds in a raised bed, consider inserting cardboard row dividers to keep the elements from mixing up your seeds before they germinate.

  4. Sprinkle the seeds evenly over the soil.

  5. Lightly dust some potting soil or horticultural sand over the seeds (think of it like powdered sugar on a brownie). It’s ok if the seeds are not fully covered.

  6. Gently press the seeds into the damp soil.

  7. Place hardware cloth over the area until the seedlings develop to keep birds or neighborhood cats from visiting.

  8. Label everything.

Water the seeds (and plants) when the soil is dry. Let the seedlings develop undisturbed over the summer, and transplant them into your garden in the fall or the following spring.

Seeds are affordable, and so are the supplies you need to grow them. Give it a try! There’s still lots of time to start seeds, especially if they only need 0-30 days of cold stratification.

Elsewhere:

On second thought, why start from seed when you can just buy plugs from Penn State Extension’s Master Watershed Stewards? They are now taking orders for native plant kits for fall planting. These are great species and even better prices at roughly $4 per plant. Check it out!

Have a good week,

Julie

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