A secluded cliffside hotel in the American Riviera
Seriously considered changing the name of Bedhead to Hotel Freak over the last few months, that’s been the energy lately. Thought better of it, but, spin off? Alternate timeline? Future guest column elsewhere… it’s too accurate a to lose forever. I put it in my Instagram bio for now, but it's more like a category of people, right? Those of us who collect and obsess over hotels like bands or records—or maybe that's just an easy analog for me since I came from music.
Clearly, I missed the June installment of this newsletter, and that's partly because I've been traveling too much to focus. Been in London, and before that Melbourne, and before that Florence and as a final before that, Lisbon. Add in New York for a personal trip in late May, and the June newsletter eventually became the July one. And now it's coming out on the final day of July. So it goes. But as someone who has spent the last month mostly in Europe, I can tell you... stay in California! It's truly chaos out there.
Why not avoid customs and borders and passports and exchange rates and long flights and trade them all for a trip within the Great Vacation State? Yes, California. Even if you live here, somehow still the best destination for a trip. Ever since Santa Barbara officially rebranded itself as the American Riviera, a trip up there is an easy dupe for Italy or Spain, and splurging on an expensive room that's just a car ride away is going to deliver a better bang for your buck than a flight.
So here are my thoughts on the most European hotel in the area, Belmond El Encanto, which is also the sole Belmond in California, and one of only three others in the US. I'm changing up the tempo and structure of the newsletter a bit as well, because it was getting too unwieldy with all the categories. The best things about each hotel tend to be very different, so forcing my thoughts into the categories wasn't working and was getting way too long. Most importantly for this property, think of El Encanto as a garden hotel, not a beach hotel like many of its local counterparts.
High up on a cliffside above the street level Santa Barbara properties, the height adds a sense of tranquility to El Encanto. Views not withstanding, this place would've been worth it for the remote location alone—even if it made valet a must. I hate having anyone else drive my car, much less a teen boy. Valet is not luxury, it's punishment. I'll die on this hill. Anyway, in this case, it's a rather charming hill in Santa Barbara's historic Presidio neighborhood. A real draw for history buffs is the El Presidio de Santa Barbara State Historic Park, just a few blocks down from the property, which features the truly stunning Santa Barbara Presidio built all the way back in 1782 by the Spanish.
The best part about El Encanto (literally "charm" or "enchantment") is undoubtedly the view, which is best enjoyed from the gorgeous zero edge pool. Lined with lounge chairs and umbrellas, it gives perfect vantage of the coastal expanse that's made the area such a coveted place to live. While most of the property is restored from the 1920s as a mix of "original Spanish-colonial and Californian craftsman styles," the pool is a contemporary addition. The mix of styles and structures yields 92 rooms, suites, and bungalows across seven acres, which means guests rarely run into each other.
This privacy and the larger-than-usual size of the rooms made this a special stay... but the most memorable amenity (that I still think about to this day) is the heated marble floor in the princess-y bathroom. There was an oversized soaking tub with shutters that opened up to sunlight or stars, and a massive walk-in marble shower, but that heated stone floor felt like the height of luxury. All the meals at the on-site restaurant were fabulous too, especially since they all come with ocean views, and the property recently added an afternoon tea. Wandering the grounds is also worth your time, highlights like a lily pond and a wishing well are tucked in among plenty of other flowers and historic enclaves.
Belmond is a great launch pad to explore the rest of Santa Barbara and the surrounding wine country. Or, if you're already familiar with the area, why not make it a true staycation and spend your time trying out the heated floor and soaking tub after a day spent lounging at the pool? Doing nothing at all—that's real luxury.
Book your stay at Belmond El Encanto right here.
Related Reading:
A Culinary Tour of Santa Barbara, The Most Underrated Dining City in America (Inside Hook)
This West Coast Train Route Has Been Enchanting Riders Since the ’70s (Vogue)
Links
Listening to: The Japanese House — In The End It Always Does
Glitchy orchestral pop more horny than it is sad, from a woman finally ready to do something about it
Putting on my skin: DRMTLGY Universal Tinted Moisturizer SPF 46 ($28)
Light-as-air sunscreen with a mermaid dewy sparkle, extra necessary since the world is now ultra hot and my skin is officially in its 30s
Drinking: De Soi, Très Rosé (4 pack for $25)
I usually drink rosé all summer, this is a perfect dupe. The saffron!
Photos courtesy of Belmond El Encanto