Palm Springs decadence, historic bungalows, and the two pool rule
Winter is the perfect time to visit the desert. The weather is temperate enough that you can appreciate the starkness without distractingly aggressive heat, and escaping the temperature where you live is an added bonus for those in colder climates. Most people come to the desert for a sense of solitude, splendid isolation Warren Zevon called it. To be in a place like Palm Springs, though, is a study in extremes. It's a city full of high-end hotels and private rental properties set against an almost non-existent downtown strip. There are a couple of great bars and a few decent kitchens, but mostly, the charm of this place is who you're with and where you sleep. Oh, and if you've got some water to dip into for about 75% of your stay.
Luckily, today's property has all of the above—except good company, you'll have to provide that yourself. Casa Cody is a perfect Palm Springs hotel in so many ways, namely that it's walking distance from that tiny downtown strip if going off property is in the cards. It's also the oldest operating hotel in town, founded by Buffalo Bill's cousin (!), Harriet Cody, and it formed the basis of Ms. Cody's income when she was sadly widowed later in life. Today, the property's women-owned status is still intact thanks to the new life that owners Casetta Group have breathed into it. Surely, it took plenty of TLC to restore this collection of cottages first built in the 1920s-30s into the stunning estate it is today, so let's get into the details.
You Are Here
175 S Cahuilla Rd, Palm Springs, CA 92262
Readers of my former project, Cinnamon Magazine, might find Casa Cody a bit familiar—it was the first property reviewed in a then-column called Bedhead which eventually evolved into this newsletter. Still, even though I've written about it before, I had to come back to Casa Cody to recommend it again. Composed of four separate parcels of land that were eventually consolidated into one, and then designated as a historic site, there's endless charm to be found in the mishmash of eras and styles tucked within these storied gates. Which leads to one reassuring element for solo female travelers: the entire property is situated behind locked gates and tall stone walls. It feels very safe for a lone traveler, and even though it's only one street over from the main drag, the quiet is almost overwhelming. Plus, options like private cottages and a two bedroom apartment with a full kitchen leaves the door open for longer stays or trips with friends who prefer to sleep alone. These bungalows also boast a history of famous guests, if that's your thing, but I'll let you do your own research in order to invoke a preferred celebrity flex when telling others about it.
Size Matters
King or Queen mattress, size varies
Speaking of sleeping, one of the best features of a stay at Casa Cody is the multiple room styles. From standard and large studios, to even larger stand-alone cottages, the Adobe House, which comfortably sleeps up to four, or one and two bedroom suites, there's a layout for everyone. Because of the variation in setup, I can't give you an exact mattress report, except to say that the king bedroom in the two bedroom suite afforded me an excellent night's sleep. In that apartment, the master bedroom has a king sized bed and an ensuite bathroom, including a shower with gorgeous tile work, and the other bedroom is a queen mattress with a guest bathroom next door. If two couples wanted to stay here, the living area, kitchen and back patio round out the space, making it plenty big enough to accommodate four.
Picture Perfect
1920s-style bungalow desert hideaway, Spanish revivalism
It's hard to overstate the aesthetic appeal of a bungalow cluster framed by the San Jacinto Mountains and swathes of bougainvillea. This is Palm Springs decadence at its finest—a gated, one-story property (great for disabled or ADA travelers), complete with its own enclosed meadows, stone and gravel paths, stucco exteriors and clay tile roofs. With red tile floors indoors, exposed wooden beams, oversized chairs, wardrobes, and custom fixtures, this place is an Instagram heaven. But it's not a quick flip for the 'gram, either, the investment in quality is clear from a renovation that had to adhere to historic landmark guidelines and approvals. It's perfect for creators who love to turn anything into a photo shoot, or those who find the most peace in beautiful surroundings. Not a detail is out of place, especially not in the jade green-tiled kitchens and bathrooms.
Wants & Needs
Products and mini-bar
One amenity that might be found tucked into rooms as a welcome gift is a can or two of Nomadica wine, another women-owned company that Casetta Group proudly supports. In fact, one of their goals in sourcing amenities for their properties is spotlighting other women- and minority-owned products. For the property's relaunch Mooncloth Designs provided special shampoo, body wash and conditioner for Casetta, and since I stayed before their take-away market and kitchen opened, they stocked our room with some high-end snacks that are now for sale. These days, the marketplace is up and running and carries anything from produce grown in the hotel's own garden to pastries and charcuterie, natural wine and craft beer, and even housemade cocktails. As mentioned, town is just a few blocks away, but why leave when all this is next door?
Water Me
Not one but two vintage pools, plus a hot tub
Look, if you're in the desert, you must have a pool. Even if it's winter, it's still an actual necessity. And if it's summer? It's a lifesaving device. Luckily, no one agrees with this sentiment more than Casa Cody, and the hotel has not one but two vintage pools, a byproduct of the combination of multiple lots merged into one larger compound. The two pool rule is a promise that you'll always be able to find what you're looking for at one of them, whether it's indulgence or serenity. The first pool is a smaller rectangular shape. Surrounded by lounge chairs and with the mountains starkly in the backdrop, it's a picture perfect moment. The second is a bit larger and curvy (they call it kidney-shaped), with less views and more privacy. Additionally, there's a hot tub, which is tucked behind a fence near the second pool. You will have no shortage of water at Casa Cody, and a nightswim is definitely recommended in addition to daytime lounging. There is no gym, so scope out a hiking trail or do a walking loop of downtown if you need to get the blood flowing. There are, however, ample meadows if you want space for yoga, stretching, HIIT, etc.
Libations
An on-site marketplace, all day menu, and plenty of beverage options
The marketplace is by no means designed to be a full restaurant, but they serve a good variety of snacks and treats from 11 AM to 10 PM every day. The all day menu includes classics like a smoked salmon bagel, gem lettuce salad, chia pudding, chips and salsa, and a couple of sandwich options. Breakfast is also included in your room rate, European style, and available from 7-10 AM every day. Check out the current menu here. As far as drinks go, there are cocktail kits, Lo-Fi wines, Mikkeller beer, and a variety of bottled cocktails that are made in-house—plenty of options if booze is a priority for visiting isolation seekers. This is also the kind of place that might call for trotting out a bottle or two from your own special collection, or bringing in a carton of seltzer from home, though Topo Chico is also available for purchase. Staples like cold brew, Diet Coke, fancy potato chips and other high-end bottled water like Mountain Valley are more examples of what the marketplace holds. If all else fails, guests are welcome—and even encouraged—to grab some citrus off one of the property's many trees and get a taste of Mother Nature's best Vitamin C-laden snacks.
Book your stay at Casa Cody right here.
Related reading:
Casa Cody Is A Secluded Desert Hideaway In Downtown Palm Springs (Cinnamon Mag)
Palm Springs’ Longest-Operating Hotel Has Some Stories To Tell (Inside Hook)
Links:
Listening to: Caroline Polachek — Desire, I Want To Turn Into You
Impulsive, impetus left-field pop. Dystopian tropicalia by a rogue voice modulatorPutting on my skin: Fablerune Rose Clay and Lavender Facial Cleanser — (1 oz, $12)
A sweet little travel size face wash from a women-owned SLO brand, lathers up so nice and calms rednessDrinking: De Soi — Champignon Dreams ($25)
Maroon-colored frothy NA drink with Reishi mushroom, perfect in a chilled glass all on its own
Photo credits in order of appearance: Lance Gerber, Josh Cho, Caitlin Atkinson, Christina Frary, Lance Gerber, Josh Cho.