Cuyama Buckhorn is a high desert paradise, wildflowers included
The "hidden valley of enchantment" is appropriately named. Just over the hill on the Grapevine, a sharp left on the 166 will take you straight out into the middle of nowhere—and that's exactly where you want to be. The Cuyama Valley is nowhere in a good way, with mountains on both sides and rolling, grassy plains that are dotted with wildflowers during the spring. It's these "superbloom" visitors that give the valley a high season during the warmer months before summer, and it's a brand new pool installed at the former-roadside-inn-turned-country-chic-hideaway Cuyama Buckhorn that makes this desert resort pop once the heat hits.
Cuyama Buckhorn, named both for the valley and the nearby town of Cuyama, is actually located in New Cuyama (which is only a few miles away from the old one), and is one of the most unlikely boutique hotels in the entire state. Thanks to careful consideration from the owners and co-proprietors—designer and culinary aficionado Ferial Sadeghian and architect Jeff Vance—the 21-room property functions more like a generous, wealthy friend's remote mansion than a formal hotel. About two-and-half hours outside of Los Angeles, and the perfect additional stop on a trip to Ojai, Santa Barbara, or farther north, this hotel is also great as a destination unto itself. The enchantment is palpable—visit even once, and you'll understand it.
You Are Here
4923 Primero St, New Cuyama, CA 93254
Originally built in 1952, the property thrived for about two decades, and then went through various owners in the '80s, '90s and early 2000s. Purchased by the current owners in 2018, it was officially unveiled in 2020 and has now entered a phase dubbed "A New Life." Historically, the property's restaurant, The Buckhorn, was a haven for travelers, and it remains that way. Everyone from bikers to local young people to hotel guests with children might be dining at any given time, and for roadtrippers, it's the rare kitchen with a great meal. Other travelers aside, if you're heading out to to the hotel from Los Angeles, the best route is to take the I-5 North directly to the 166-W and follow that about 50 miles to New Cuyama.
Though it may be remote, and western-themed, the hotel is 100% a safe space. It's co-owned by a woman of color who is originally from Iran, and while politics aren't explicitly mentioned, don't mistake the vintage country aesthetic for a tacit conservative co-sign. After visiting with me, a queer friend decided to host his birthday party there, and in my experience, guests of all stripes regularly book in. Emphasis on local sourcing, inclusion of all kinds, and an open-hearted feel define the spirit of this place. Lastly, it's extremely rare to encounter a hotel of any caliber that's independently owned, let alone one this polished. Support your local hospitality business and book out here!
Size Matters
King or Queen mattress, size varies
Both times I've stayed at Cuyama, it's been in a double room with two queens. There are also single queen rooms, single king rooms, and a one bedroom king suite. While the queens here are on the smaller side, they're incredibly soft, and rest on built-in wooden frames that keep everything cozy. With the added bonus of super soft Brooklinen sheets and melty pillows, there's always a good night's sleep to be had in Cuyama. While some revamped motor hotels let in a lot of noise, this property opted to enclose all the area that was former parking spaces behind a fence, creating a private inner area that's for foot traffic only, and ensuring a front patio for most rooms on site. It also means your window only lets in noise from the other guests around you, not cars and other traffic.
Picture Perfect
High desert debonair
The guest rooms are one of the best parts of the hotel, and that isn't always the case when it comes to a motor hotel flip. Re-done with gorgeous, thick patterned tile floors, built-in bed frames and side tables made of dark wood, and decorated with wicker light fixtures, wide brimmed hats, and local art, there's even a stack of Louis L'Amour books on the nightstand for your perusal. The picturesque lobby is another high-aesthetic zone (above), re-done as basically a vintage '70s living room complete with a mounted deer head, cowhide rug, and old brick fireplace. Every area of the hotel is designed to fit this high desert debonair theme, and it's a very masculine hotel while still maintaining a gentle touch.
Wants & Needs
Products and mini-bar
Continuing their trend of supporting local providers in the area and other beloved small businesses, nearly all the snacks and mini-bar items are artisanal. We're talking Fever Tree tonic, a bottle of wine or two from local winemakers like Condor's Hope, Route 11 potato chips, and so many more (full list of property partners here). They stock Further products including shampoo, conditioner, soap and lotion, all of which that company makes from locally sourced depleted vegetable oil that's refined into biofuel and converted into toiletries. These are recycled, delicious smelling (bergamot, olive, and grass) concoctions that are also surprisingly affordable if you want to snag them for your own home.
Water Me
A pool, sizeable hot tub, and barrel sauna (!) on site
Many a roadside inn revamp treats the pool as an afterthought, banking on the high-aesthetic rooms, local landscapes and a great restaurant to keep guests' attention. As usual, Cuyama Buckhorn goes the extra mile. Their brand new pool and spacious jacuzzi give guest an outside communal area to hang out, and a custom-built barrel sauna is another totally unexpected amenity that makes for a really fun hang. Yes, the pool is cold—but the hot tub is much bigger than average. You can even do a circuit from jacuzzi, to sauna, to cold plunge, and call it a wellness trip, if you want. Or nab a bottle of wine inside from the Buck Stop Coffee Shop and Market and have a giggly, day-drinky afternoon that leads straight into golden hour. It's a beautiful pool for photo opps, and while there's no gym, the sauna is a way cooler addition than any treadmill. When it's summer, this pool is a scene, so choose your visit timing wisely based on your preferences.
Libations
Multiple service options for coffee, market goods, food and alcohol—plus room service
Speaking of golden hour, the food and drink choices at Cuyama Buckhorn are truly exceptional, and that's kind of essential considering they're kind of the only game in town for F&B. Between the all-day diner setup at The Buckhorn, the coffee shop and market goods at The Buck Stop, and a late afternoon start time at The Buckhorn Bar, there's always something available when it comes to snacks, a hearty meal, and world-class cocktails and mocktails. Breakfast room service is also recommended, partially because the beds are so comfy you won't want to get up, and partially because the menu is stacked.
As for drinks, bartender Sam Seidenberg and beverage director Scott Augat have put together a seriously stellar menu that includes local ingredients, interesting and rare spirits, barrel-aged cocktails, boozy infusions, and some mocktails that will make you forget there's no booze in 'em. For food, the burgers and Santa Maria-style smokehouse platter take the cake, but there's plenty of vegetarian options too, from salads, to veggie tacos, to some killer butternut squash queso.
Book your stay at Cuyama Buckhorn right here.
Related Reading:
Review: The Cuyama Buckhorn Is The Platonic Ideal of the California Roadside Inn (Inside Hook)
At The Edge Of Santa Barbara County, Cuyama Is Central California's Cowboy Valley Of Enchantment (SF Gate)
Links
Listening to: Lana Del Rey — Did You Know That There's a Tunnel Under Ocean Blvd
A pop auteur grapples with sexuality, abuse, misogyny, family lineage and mythology, all in dulcet tones
Putting on my skin: Ursa Major Brighten Up Vitamin C Serum ($56)
Lightweight, sticky golden, smells like oranges and immediately brightens as promised
Drinking: High Tea at The Biltmore ($75)
Unexpected herbal blends by St. Bastian's tea company, stunning floral china and killer scones
Photos by Stephanie Russo