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January 8, 2018

A New Hope

I’m in a state of distress.

Granted, it doesn’t help that I’ve just had an iced long black and the caffeine is coursing through me like one of those Power-Up mushrooms in Super Mario (spurred on by speedy, synth-y music on loop in my head).

But the palpitations aren’t caffeine-induced. My heart… It’s broken.

Why?

Because I’ve recently learned Australia’s Top Googled Recipes for 2017, and the results are truly alarming.

Not one, but two creamy sauces: béchamel and hollandaise. Three casseroles: Stroganoff and Bourguignon and Cacciatore. A QUICHE. And the rest of the recipes don’t offer much reprieve.

You see, as with any participatory activity or creative expression, food is a lens through which to view the Collective Unconscious.

Unlike art, music or film, however, eating is something we’re required to participate in multiple times a day. Which means it’s a far more accurate and quantifiable litmus test of the aforementioned 'Collective' than any other - particularly since those other mediums are dominated by a self-selecting group of fairly liberal artsy types (it’s no accident that the degree is called 'Liberal' Arts, after all).

That’s why these results are so worrisome.

"Tell me what you eat, and I’ll tell you what you are," declared renowned gastronomic thinker Brillat Savarin, over two centuries ago.

Well, if what we cooked in 2017 is an indication of what we are, then what we are right now, is rocking gently on the metaphysical floor in foetal position.

These recipes are safe. They’re nostalgic. They’re mother’s milk and Sunday lunch at nan’s. They’re comforting and familiar and boring.

They’re GREIGE - that shade of inoffensive not-quite grey, not-quite beige… in both appearance and flavour.

Now I’m not one to poo-poo a home-cooked meal, regardless of what it is - it’s brilliant that we’re cooking at home. I’m thrilled!

I’ve also been known to crank out a cacciatore on occasion myself, and my husband, Nick, bakes a mean quiche. If it was just Cacciatore, or Chilli Con Carne, or Quiche Lorraine, amongst a more adventurous collection, I wouldn’t be so concerned.

Alas, it is the list as a whole, in its entirety, that I find entirely disconcerting.

Of course, I couldn’t have expected more, considering the year we’ve had. Political upheaval both here and abroad, environmental disasters, a #metoo movement precipitated by years of systemic inequality and abuse.

2017 felt like the year that threatened to bubble over into all-out war. It seems like the only good thing to have come of it was Salt Bae (all the way back in January - a lifetime ago!).

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Even though the world feels like it’s gone to shiitake, and there doesn’t seem to be mushroom left for positivity, food is our chance to break free.

Every day, we have at least three opportunities to optimise our optimism - and that of our loved ones. To dip our toes into untapped ponds, tap the keyboard and unlock new tastes, new recipes, A New Hope*.

So, here’s a list of dishes I’d love for the cooks of Australia (and anyone anywhere else, for that matter) to try:

1. Some form of Ceviche: it’s much easier than it looks, and perfect for really hot days. I’ve made two in the last week - both scallop, because they’re nice and juicy at the moment, but any sashimi-grade seafood would work perfectly. Here's a recipe I found that's similar to the ceviche I like to make

2. A Curry: OK, so I know it’s basically a spicy stew, but curry is a sensational way to dip your toe into playing with herbs and spices, and it’s very forgiving! Vegetable curries are easiest (and a great way of using up leftover crisper veg). Here's Christine Manfield's Veg Curry from Short Cuts to Glory

3. A ‘Cream of Something’ Soup: speaking of using up leftovers, this is a must! Especially if you're in the habit of roasting extra bits for 'Ron, add it to a soup and you'll never look back! Broccoli, cauliflower, pumpkin, tomato - you’re limited only by what’s feeling squishy. Listen to this radio seg about easy pumpkin soup with me and Raf on 774 ABC Melbourne

4. Something that involves Poaching an Egg: I can't tell you how often people ask me for egg poaching tips (vinegar, fresh eggs, drop it close to the boiling water), or use the "can't poach an egg" line to negate their cooking prowess. Trust me, it's easier than it looks - and much cheaper than hitting up cafes every weekend.

5. A really great Gluten Free Cake: it doesn’t matter if no one you know is allergic, everyone needs at least one flourless cake in their repertoire to bring to parties (where you might make new friends with a coeliac CEO). Ignore the ads that tell you to bring shitty chocolates “when not to bring anything”. Bring a cake! Belinda Jeffery is my baking #bae

6. Roast Chicken - Gravy - Stock: nothing makes you appreciate the ‘no-waste’ness of home-cooking like a roast chook, which can be transformed into various states of scrumptious matter until it is but a smug expression on your mug. Here are some roast chook tips I wrote a while back

7. A whole baked vegetable: cauliflower, pumpkin, squash. Take a big-arse vegetable and treat it with the same reverence you would a piece of meat. My favourite whole-roast cauliflower recipe via Miznon

8. A frittata/tortilla/slice: Zucchini slice is my current favourite, but that's because there's so much to go around! Autumn will be all about the roast pumpkin frittata, and by winter, it's Spanish-style potato tortilla. Something eggy that keeps well in the fridge means you don't have to think about breakfast on the run, work lunch, or afternoon tea for the kids! I can't tell you how many people I've put onto this zucchini slice by Mr & Mrs Wilkinson

9. Pasta: Any kind, I don't mind. Something for when you get home pooped and hungry, and can confidently whack together on auto-pilot. When in doubt, I search BBC's archives

10. MYO preserve of some description: Be it a jam, a chutney, or even your own passata, this is the gift that keeps on giving, so that you may get your glutton on, even when the glut is gone. An ancient musing I wrote about jams and preserves that may be worth a click

*yes, my call to arms starts and ends with a Star Wars reference. No, I’m not sorry.

Cheerio!

A — Z.

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