This winter is defined by citrus. Every grocery store visit sees me leave with bags full of oranges, mandarins, tangerines, grapefruit, whatever looks best that day. I’ve become a full-blown collector of lemons and limes at this point, and I’m now your neighborhood Cara Cara orange evangelist - did you know that they’re the result of a random mutation of a Washington navel orange tree, like they just suddenly decided to bless us with their presence one day? I really can’t get enough of citrus.

Good timing because I’ve been cooking a bit from Ixta Belfrage’s FUSÃO: Untraditional Recipes Inspired by Brasil where a squeeze of lime or tangerine is often the perfect complement to a finished product. One of the first recipes I tackled, the revelatory mango jam (which could be papaya instead…next time!) quickly cemented my dedication to this book. Stuffed into biscuits, mixed into onigiri, or used to make a curry butter to slather over cod fillets, the tart jam deserves dedicated fridge space. A chopped chile condiment presents similar potential, consisting of fistfuls of diced fresnos and habaneros (or scotch bonnets if blessed by the season) that can add a spicy kick as needed.

I’ll have y’all know that I’ve almost completely conquered my tomato aversion, so much so that I keep a pint of cherry or grape tomatoes on hand at all times these days. Good timing since tomatoes play a pretty prevalent role in Brazilian cuisine. I could probably eat the coconut and ginger roasted cherry tomatoes straight-up with a spoon. They deserve a more elevated purpose, though, so instead I’ve been using them in fancy grilled cheeses and breakfast sandwiches and to balance out a snack of rich labneh dolloped on crackers.

Our brief FUSÃO tour ended with a regional Brazilian dish, vaca atolada. Translated as “cow stuck in the mud,” the dish really lived up to its name as hunks of beef short ribs poked out of the spiced stew of onion, cassava, and tomato. Grated tomato, fresh cilantro, and a squeeze of lime infused a final touch of brilliant acidity. FUSÃO is due back to the library, but I have a feeling it’ll come back around soon.

Times are bewildering, but at least there’s plenty of good citrus to enjoy. Stay bright out there, buds.