Afterwords Japan: Through the Torii Gate

Archive

AWJ: 26 — Back to the Future

Portrait of David in bamboo grove

June 1st, 2022

Winnipeg

Wow. That was a trip.

#26
June 1, 2022
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AWJ: 25 — I Will Do My Best

Red Japanese maple leaves stand out against greenery

May 31st, 2019

Tokyo -> Winnipeg

There’s nothing quite like steeping oneself in another culture and, just like a good tea, I'm grateful for the flavour it adds to life. But I'm also mindful of circling back to the cultural waters from which I came. What was once warm and cozy can often feel a bit...harsh, with the contrast. Furthermore, there's the leviathan of tasks waiting for my return; pushed back to make room for the trip, but steadily growing to monstrous proportions and needing to be dealt with eventually.

#25
May 31, 2022
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AWJ: 24 — Resurfacing

Fishermen in river alongside Shinkansen

May 30th, 2019

Kyoto -> Tokyo

Scenes of humanity blur past: a gaggle of children totter towards school, a lone farmer tends a field, a fisherman stands in the river tempting appetites with his line.

#24
May 30, 2022
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AWJ: 23 — One More Time with Feeling

Sliced Japanese milk bread alongside sourdough

May 29th, 2019

Somewhere in Yoshino -> Kyoto

Food on the road is a guiding need and one that can be tricky to satisfy, especially on in-transit days. In the past few weeks, many a meal has been cobbled together from vending machine and convenience store offerings - which are plentiful and surprisingly excellent here in Japan.

#23
May 29, 2022
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AWJ: 22 — The Pursuit of Silence

Yoshino River Valley mist

May 28th, 2019

Somewhere in Yoshino

The rain comes in the middle of the night; a light pitter patter on the roof stirs me from the futon, and it soon becomes a roaring sound that covers up all individual drops. After six days of cloudless skies and record high temperatures, it is pouring. I open the windows wide.

#22
May 28, 2022
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AWJ: 21 — A Canadian, a Raccoon Dog, and a Priest

Rural train going over river bridge

May 27th, 2019

Kyoto -> Somewhere in Yoshino

There are many ways to measure the distance travelled today. One is by the trains - three total, each subsequently getting smaller and more aged than the last. Another is by English - progressively disappearing from signage and the tips of tongues. And I suppose there’s the old fashioned method of kilometres (not to mention miles, which some scholars might remember as a unit of measurement the ancient Americans relied upon).

#21
May 27, 2022
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AWJ: 20 — The Line Begins to Blur

Woman taking selfie at temple entrance in Kyoto

May 26th, 2019

Kyoto

A torii gate is a precipice, and stepping through it is an act of going from the mundane to the sacred. Travel can be a bit like that too, albeit the gateway is usually the metal detector at airport security.

#20
May 26, 2022
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AWJ: 19 — Climate and Change

Looking down on Kyoto cityscape

May 25th, 2019

Kyoto

I wake up early, catching a window of fresh air before the heat blankets the city. But soon enough I’m walking through an oven, navigating concrete that emanates absorbed sunshine. It is oppressive.

#19
May 25, 2022
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AWJ: 18 — Lights, Camera, Action

Classic red taxi zooms past shrine in Kyoto

May 24th, 2019

Kyoto

The train plunges into darkness. Lights on tunnel walls wink past as my eyes struggle to adjust to the contrast. But just as I begin to see anew, the sky engulfs us again and a strong noon sun blinds me. We go over a bridge and my pupils settle down and...are those people driving go-karts down the street, dressed up as video game characters? I blink - yes, that definitely is Mario skidding around the corner.

#18
May 24, 2022
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AWJ: 17 — Kyoto Bound

Rustic tokonoma in countryside home

May 23rd, 2019

Somewhere in Sabae -> Kyoto

Hillside shrines disappear from sight as I ride the rails onwards to the old capital of Japan: Kyoto.

#17
May 23, 2022
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AWJ: 16 — Big in Japan

Hillside shrine over Sabae community

May 22nd, 2019

Somewhere in Sabae

An old joke goes: "I'm big in Japan." I can't quite remember the setup, but I've been feeling its punchline every time I bang my head on a doorframe, roof beam, or sometimes even the roof itself - which is to say, I've been feeling it often on this trip.

#16
May 22, 2022
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AWJ: 15 — Miscommunications

Sabae countryside from the road

May 21st, 2019

Fukui -> Somewhere in Sabae

"You want to go-a home, yah?" the kindly woman in the driver's seat beside me asks. She picked me up at the train station just five minutes ago.

#15
May 21, 2022
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AWJ: 14 — Valley of the Nine-Headed Dragon River

Eihei-ji temple nestled in the valley of the Nine-Headed Dragon River

May 20th, 2019

Fukui -> Eihei-ji

Towards the end of Basho's classic Narrow Road to the Deep North, the poet-monk arrives at Eihei-ji: "I thought it...a miracle that the Priest Dogen had chosen such a secluded place for the site of the temple."

#14
May 20, 2022
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AWJ: 13 — Dash to the Finish

Barred in the garden - looking out ryokan entrance to street

May 19th, 2019

Narai -> Fukui

Last night was a blur, or maybe I just have a concussion.

#13
May 19, 2022
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AWJ: 12 — Fistfuls of Prayers

Hungry koi fish in moat of Matsumoto Castle

May 18th, 2019

Matsumoto -> Narai

I wake with a start - the tatami floors in my room are shaking - is that an earthquake!? Snapping out of my waking dream, giggles of children float - no, cut - through the thin walls from the hallway. I sneeze, and hear / feel them scurry back to their room where mom and dad are packing for an early departure.

#12
May 18, 2022
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AWJ: 11 — Intermissions

Green gardens of Kozen-ji

May 17th, 2019

Kiso-Fukushima -> Matsumoto

Imagine watching an epic sport-ball match without an intermission. The athletes, in their prime physical embodiments, would start the game with fire and force. Ten minutes in, they would be looking to Coach on the sidelines: Could I get a sub out here? But that goes against the intermission-less rules, and so they press on and on and on. Players slow down, shadows of the performance they entered the field with. Some even sit down, looking at the nonsensical scoreboard thinking: Maybe more isn't always better?

#11
May 17, 2022
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AWJ: 10 — Fissures of Time

Trail signage on mossy rock

May 16th, 2019

Tsumago -> Kiso-Fukushima

The trail is covered with twigs now. Old signs don’t have new ones to compete with anymore, nor do I with any day-trippers. An offshoot cuts left, marked by a rotting wooden plank with the word "castle" next to an arrow. So I diverge. Climbing, climbing, climbing: over downed trees toppled by the wind, through bamboo hillside amidst dancing dappled light, and up to the top of the lone steep hill. The bamboo gives way, cut back by unseen hands of the past, and I emerge onto a wide green field overlooking Tsumago below. But there is nothing here; the castle burned down a long time ago.

#10
May 16, 2022
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AWJ: 09 — Pass and Passing

Old stone section of the Nakasendo Trail

May 15th, 2019

Magome -> Tsumago

More roaming thunderclouds today. Listen to them rumble in an audio immersion I recorded.

#9
May 15, 2022
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AWJ: 08 — Shrouded Mountain Town

Shrouded Green Mountains

May 14th, 2019

Magome

I’ve awoken in a cloud. Everything is wet with a rain not quite formed. The light is diffuse and directionless and beautiful. The green of the trees is extra green-y. Is this a dream?

#8
May 14, 2022
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AWJ: 07 — A Blink and a Stumble

A man watches for an incoming train at the station

May 13th, 2019

Tokyo -> Magome

With a blink, a blur, and a stumble, I find myself in a dusty, open-air train station in Nakatsugawa. The ride was so remarkably smooth that it was unremarkable.

#7
May 13, 2022
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AWJ: 06 — Streets of Serendipity

Portrait of Takayuki Ishitani brewing espresso at Toranomon Koffee

May 12th, 2019

Tokyo

Sometimes a destination is purely functional. Going somewhere to write, for example, simply needs to have decent lighting and some semblance of calm. I prefer the presence of other people - a few, not too many; feeling the light bustle of life and living stirs up my creativity. And for an old-fashioned millennial such as myself who still uses a pen and paper, a dry and clean table would be ideal.

#6
May 12, 2022
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AWJ: 05 — Dark Arts

Koffee Mameya Entrance - Minimalist ikebana

May 11th, 2019

Tokyo

Subtlety is a classic feature in Japanese cuisine - embodied in the tradition of consuming unadulterated leaves in tea ceremony, but extending into other aspects of the culture as a way of being. It requires a quiet foundation to pay attention to what otherwise might be undetected on nose, tongue, and mind.

#5
May 11, 2022
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AWJ: 04 — Wider Circles

Bustling Tokyo Station at Sunset

May 10th, 2019

Tokyo

Arriving underground, the subway doors open and I step out onto the platform. It's filled with orderly lines of commuters waiting for their turn to wedge themselves into my train. "Tokyo Station," the electronic voice announces over the PA system. Half a million people come through this singular hub every day and, due to jet lag, I have made the wise choice of acquainting myself with the city's subway system at rush hour on a Friday night.

#4
May 10, 2022
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AWJ: 03 — So About Last Night

A classic Tokyo taxi on Ginza streets

May 9th, 2019

Tokyo

I was violated by a toilet last night.

#3
May 9, 2022
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AWJ: 02 — Liminal Spaces Between Places

Between Clouds in International Airspace

May 8th, 2019

International Airspace -> Tokyo

There is a liminal space between clouds, where time doesn't follow what's on a wristwatch. From Chicago to Tokyo, we spent 13 hours in the air and crossed 14 different time zones; flying west and chasing the sun as it only slightly outpaced us.

#2
May 8, 2022
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AWJ: 01 — The Precipice

Japan Preparations Flatlay - Books, and maps, and notes

May 7th, 2019

Winnipeg -> International Airspace

My flight leaves at 5:25 pm.

#1
May 7, 2022
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