Single Footlock - an improvised foot ascender
Every rope a ladder.
Every rope a ladder. The single footlock makes it easy to create an adjustable foothold on a rope.
The single foot lock allows a climber to create reliable purchase for one foot on the rope without the use of a footloop or foot ascender. With sufficient rope weight below the climber, the single footlock will also self-advance, greatly speeding ascent.
In contrast with the two-footed double footlock technique commonly used by professional tree climbers, the single footlock requires less physical effort to use and maintain the lock, but takes a couple seconds (literally) longer to rig and requires tending without sufficient weight below.
Forming
Form the footlock by simply creating a loop around the foot. The strand closest to the heel heads towards the ground.
Wrapping the foot for the single foot lock.
Place the rope against the instep of the foot.
Bring a loop around the toe (from above the foot)
Rope forms a full wrap around the foot, overlapping against the instep.
Notice how the rope above the foot is positioned closer to the toe, while the portion closer to the heel is the part below the foot.
In practice, it is effective to place the instep of the foot against the rope, grasp the loose portion of rope above the foot (but below the climbing hitch) then “cast” or throw a loop of rope over the toe of the foot.
Most climbers find it easiest if the overlapping portion of the rope lies against the instep of the foot. The outside works better for some combination of climber preference + footwear. See what works best for you!
Working Principle
The footlock functions by having the loaded section of rope trap the tail of the rope against the climber’s foot. When correctly employed, this locked loop will let the foot bear weight without slipping down the rope.
The climber can lock or unlock the loop by adjusting the angle of their foot - and the amount of purchase the loaded section applies to the tail.
Lock position in use. Pointing the toe down and pushing the foot backwards locks the loose end against the instep of the right foot. Lifting the toe allows the foot to slide upwards on the rope.
Climbing
Use with in a Moving Rope System. The single footlock replaces the footloop or foot ascender. Shown here with a traditional/closed MRS.
Pointing the toe will allow the rope to lock at the foot, but it requires pressure to stay in place. Push the foot backwards to place the foot under the body and hold it in position while stepping up on the footlock.
Body position for reliable locking. Climbing system omitted for clarity. NEVER RELY ON JUST A FOOTLOCK FOR PERSONAL PROTECTION!
Right: Proper body position
Make an exaggerated pointing motion with the foot.
Bring the body over the foot and apply some pressure to set the lock, while continuing to keep the toe pointed and pushing backwards.
Stand to maximum height.
Left: Attempting to stand with the foot level or in front of the body often causes the footlock to footslip.
Knowledge Weighs Nothing
Efficient Moving Rope System (MRS) climbing requires the climber to use their powerful leg muscles to ascend, rather than relying entirely on arms and body-thrusting/hip-thrusting. Novice climbers often use the simple, inexpensive and versatile footloop. Effective but slow – prompting many to search for a faster, more efficient solution, and tempting many to purchase a mechanical foot ascender soon after their initial climbing lessons.
The single footlock can fulfill a similar function as a footloop or foot ascender for zero cost & weight. Plus there is no risk of damage to the tree from the foot ascender’s metal shell.
Most experienced climbers do not use a foot loop and many even forgo a foot ascender as well - instead relying exclusively on the single foot lock. Others prefer the footloop or a foot ascender but have learned the single foot lock for emergencies. Practice the technique to become proficient at it, then decide which method you prefer and in which situations. All three (and others) have their place in a tree climber’s toolbox.
One more note on emergencies: A life-rated footloop can also be useful in an emergency, such as creating a direct attachment to the tree or incapacitated climber or when improvising another MRS or SRS climbing system. If leaving your footloop behind for a climb, consider how you will replicate this functionality.
The third rope (an article for another time) is an excellent tool for some of these purposes.
The Next Crossover?
Examples of passing a knot using the single footlock to unweight a hitch.
Left: Downclimbing to load descender. Stand to relieve tension on the hitch, slide hitch down towards the knot, sit to re-weight descender.
Right: Ascending to load descender (climber omitted for clarity). A small shelf on the hitch acts as a redirect for descender for mechanical advantage. Footlock lets legs provide the lifting effort.
Other rope disciplines have adopted tree climbing’s closed eye-to-eye friction hitches as “VT Prusik(s),” and perhaps the single footlock could be the next tree climbing skill to go mainstream. I am surprised we have not yet seen wide adoption of the single foot lock for common rope tasks such as passing knots, self-rescue rope ascending (in conjunction with a true life-rated connection) and other rope tasks. Any untensioned rope can quickly and easily become a reliable foothold or step – yet another tool-in-the-toolbox for vertical rope users.