Restless 12 - Observations on Walking the Kiso-ji
The start of the northern end of the Kiso-ji in Nagano prefecture.
Hello, this will be the last newsletter of 2021. Let's dive in.
Last year I began walking the Kiso-ji (木曽路) which runs along the Nakasendō through the Kiso Valley in Nagano and on into Gifu prefecture. Seven walks later, at the end of November, and it was all done. If you’ve followed along on my website you’ll already know about them but I thought it might be good to write a few brief thoughts on how it all went, although I do plan to write more on my website at a later date.
The Experience
Walking a well-known historical route made me feel more connected with Japan - both historically and geographically. It also made me feel far more creative than I have done when cycling, but that’s probably because cycling became too much of a routine. This walk broke that routine and helped me see the world from a fresh perspective. It felt fantastic to be limited to walking pace. I had no choice but to slow down and I relished it.
It forced me outdoors regularly to create photographs and journal entries. Projects, no matter the scale, are important.
It was lonely but I was expecting that. Some said hello (I said hello), but it rarely went much further. I don’t have the kind of personality to walk into a shop or restaurant, chat away and take photos. I’d rather be outside. But along this route nobody was outside. I find shops and restaurants in general to be an unnecessary hassle most of the time and often find myself freezing up in restaurants in particular. All I want to do is eat and leave. But I know this is wrong, I know I should be talking to more people and spending a few minutes indoors is a great way to do that. Most people are good people. As a way to counter this see the first point in The Future below.
The walk was mostly beautiful - with occasional glimpses of Mt. Ontake, the Chuo Alps, Mt. Ena, and Nagisodake - I walked it in all four seasons (five if you include the rainy season) but also frustrating. Route 19 and the JR Chuo Lines both run through the Kiso Valley and were both eye-sores at times. Route 19 and the din of passing trucks in particular felt like a wart on the landscape.
Photographically I prefer these kinds of walks to hiking in the mountains. I like human elements in my photos and they are in abundance on walks like this.
The Gear
I began last December carrying two cameras - a Lumix S5 and G9 (which I’ve since sold), with lenses. I finished with the S5 and my beloved Leica M6 loaded with black and white film (because I like the occasional hit of nostalgia). Although I used a 24-105mm zoom, a 35mm prime, and a 50mm prime the majority of the photos I took were between 24mm and 50mm. That makes me think I only need one camera and one 35mm lens for future walks. Keep it light and simple, stupid. Follow your own advice!
The same can also be said for backpacks. I have two that I love - the Atlas Pack Athlete (40L) and a Mammut Duncan 24 (24L). I started with the Atlas Pack and ended with it too, but in between mostly used the Mammut. The Atlas Pack is overkill for a one camera, one lens set up, whereas the Mammut is almost perfect. The Mammut has proper back ventilation, too. Great for the horrid Japanese summer. Longer, multiple day trips = Atlas Pack. Day trips (walks/hikes/bike rides) = Mammut.
I’ve never ever thought about selling my bicycles before but I did do while on these walks. I don’t know what that means though.
The Future
I used the walk partly as an excuse to spend time alone. That was fine then but now my daughter is two-years old I believe she should come with me more often. This book has made me realise the importance of using time more wisely. That means not only prioritizing time spent with family but also connecting with other people. With my daughter in tow I’ll have company, she’ll spend more time outdoors, mom will get time off, and she has the potential to bridge the gap between myself and locals who I had difficulty chatting with this time. Anyone with a child knows what a conversation starter they can be, so the two of us in the countryside walking historic routes, her bobbing about in the kids carrier backpack? Well…we’ll have to see. It could be a brilliant idea or it could go disastrously wrong. There’s only one way to find out. The walks will have to be shorter and logistically they could be a nightmare but it beats the local park or sitting at home glued to Netflix Kids.
I want to walk the Kiso-ji again. But I also want to keep walking west along the Nakansedō. If my daughter is going to come along I need to keep it simple. Closer to home (Mitake, Kani, Kakamigahara, among other places) makes more sense for now.
Overall, the Kiso-ji/Nakasendō was wonderful. Highly recommended.
Now for a bit of housekeeping. Last year I upgraded my Wordpress plan to see if it would make a difference to how I run this website. It didn’t so I’ve recently reverted back to the plan I had originally. As a result, there might be one or two changes to the website but things should mostly be the same. If you find anything weird, please let me know.
Also, as this is the 12th newsletter I’ve decided in 2022 I’m going to slow it down a little and make it less frequent. Bi-monthly, perhaps? This newsletter began as an experiment and although I enjoy writing it (I’m still far from confident in my abilities!) I think it’s wise to ease off a touch so that I don’t run out of things to talk about.
Lastly, I’ve added a new map to MapHub where you can see at a glance some of the walks and hikes that I’ve done. It’s not a comprehensive list but it’s a start. You can find that here. (There's an older bike-packing one here.)
Have a great new year wherever you are and all the best for 2022.
Sean.
Have anything to say? Feel free to email me.
Posts:
Our Daughter’s Birthday / A Brief Post on Adoption in Japan – SeanBreslin.jp
Our daughter turned two last week. When she was born in the autumn of 2019 I was in Kyoto meeting a good friend. It wasn’t until 4 months later that we learnt that in all likelihood our daugh…
Some Distant Memory – A Trip to Morocco – SeanBreslin.jp
In early 1998 I made the decision to leave Hong Kong and the life that I had made for myself to go back home and start fresh, but I couldn’t shake my backpacking past and missed the freedom of trav…
Nakasendō/Kisoji – Walking Nagiso to Nakatsugawa – SeanBreslin.jp
It took me a year, but the Kiso-ji section of the Nakasendō from Shiojiri to Nakatsugawa is now complete. Pre-baby-toddler daughter and I would have finished it much sooner, but I quite enjoyed str…
Books read:
Teach Yourself to Live by CGL Du Cann
Radically Condensed Instructions for Being Just as You Are by J Jennifer Mathews
Something Strange Across the River by Kafu Nagai