Base Spirit Bingo Strawberry Cocktails
This edition highlights favorite summers cocktail inspired by fresh farmer's market strawberries.
One of my favorite new shows of the past few months is Étoile—a comedy written by Amy Sherman-Palladino and Daniel Palladino (Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, Gilmore Girls)—about two ballet companies in New York City and Paris who decide to swap major members of their lineups for a season as a gimmick to boost each business. Like most Sherman-Palladino scripts, the dialogue is sharp and brimming with fun pop cultural references, and richly developed characters serving up plenty of nutritious snark.
Actress/trained dancer Lou de Laâge plays Cheyenne Toussant—the unflappable French lead ballerina (l’étoile) who delivers every line in flawless monotone schtick. At one point someone mentions strawberries and she says: “That’s such a stupid fruit. It goes bad within two days. What’s the point?”
(Ok, that might not be the direct quote, but it was something along those lines.)
Anyway, she’s not wrong about the “goes bad” part. The “stupid” I have issues with, especially this time of year when those cartons of bright red fruit show up at the greenmarkets. There’s a big difference between these beauties and the pink ombre ones sold at the grocery store (or in NYC, the street fruit stand hustles) the rest of the year.
The problem, as Cheyenne points out, once they’re home, it’s a race against the clock to consume them before they resemble muppets. Sure, you can freeze them, or find other ways to prolong their life (a vinegar rinse, supposedly) or preserve them (a friend on Instagram suggested using a portion for gomme syrup and keeping it in the freezer), but there are always a few designated for my favorite summer cocktails to make at home.
What I like about these recipes is that the ratios work with most base spirits—gin, rum, tequila, mezcal, vodka, cognac, American brandy, etc.. Pick one you have handy or whatever fits the mood.
Note that two of these preparations require a little macerating time. You can skip that step if you desire instant gratification, but the job gets done in less than half an hour. It’s an easy multitask: slice a few berries, place in a glass with a little booze, walk away and do something you were going to do anyway, then reward yourself with one of the best-tasting, freshest cocktails you’ll drink all year.
Schustah’s Base Spirit Bingo Strawberry Negroni
This is my go-to summer house cocktail whenever I spot the first berries at the farmer’s market, and it’s on heavy rotation for most of the season (especially since I cut up and freeze my berries). If you already know how to make a Negroni and keep at least one cutting board dedicated to being free of garlic smells, this variation is nearly impossible to screw up. If you have never made one, now is the perfect time—and also, I’m not kidding about the “hard to screw up” benefit. Plus the ingredients are conveniently interchangeable.
I sometimes use leftover rosé wine (every once in a while such a thing exists) in place of the vermouth. It works because the strawberries already add some of the earthy/grassy dimension the botanicals of the vermouth would have, as well as the fruitiness. After discovering this flavor combination, in the warmer months of the year, I find myself saving some rosé just for this purpose.
Dry gin is the quintessential spirit for the base. However, I’ve also found that this cocktail works great with tequila blanco or reposado, rye, Japanese whisky, American brandy or VSOP cognac, and even mezcal.
For aperitivo, I prefer to use a more assertive style rather than the Aperol-ish, fruity sweet style. But that’s how I like my non-strawberry Negronis anyway.
Note: allow about 20 minutes for the strawberries to do their magic with the vermouth/wine component. Happens right in the glass. Easy schmeazy. Let them get to know one another in the glass while you prep dinner or make up a cheese plate or whatever.
2 large strawberries or 3 small ones, hull removed and sliced
1 oz (30 ml) aperitivo
1 oz (30 ml) sweet vermouth, rosé style vermouth, or plain old (and it really can be a little old, open for up to 10 days) rosé wine
1 oz (30 ml) base spirit of choice
In a double rocks glass, add the aperitivo. Stir gently and let sit at room temperature for at least 15 to 20 minutes. Add the other ingredients and ice to top (large cubes preferred. I use ones made using this Clearly Frozen ice cube tray so they stay pretty). Stir until chilled. Sip. Smile.
Note: there is no shame in fishing the whole pieces of strawberry out with your fingers and eating them once you’ve sipped the liquid. That’s part of the untethered joy of this drink.
Meet El Presidente
Originally by Marcie Anderson, Restaurant Daniel, New York City
This aromatic beauty was originally conceived by Daniel’s then head bartender for the Duran Duran-inspired cocktails article I wrote for Alcohol Professor in June, 2018, which was shared by the band’s social media, and re-posted on their website! [Note from 13 year-old Amanda: Squeeeeeee!!!!]
At the time, Marcie said that “The lyrics of this song [“Meet El Presidente”, from the 1986 album Notorious] really made me think about Éva Perón, who was the famous wife of Argentinian President Juan Perón. Evita is definitely my favorite musical of all time.”
In my interview with him here, David Wondrich mentioned that he’s developed a fondness for the classic Cuban El Presidente cocktail, which is a stirred, boozy rum number (a recipe is in that article too if you care to click that link above). Marcie’s is a summer riff with fernet, a favorite spirit of Argentina.
I visited Marcie at the bar at Restaurant Daniel the week the piece came out, and when she brought out the strawberries to make the drink for me (to quote the lyric they were “in demand at dinner time”), I could smell their sweet, summery berry-ness from across the room. Chef Boulud’s kitchens have access to some of the best produce in the world, and even just two of those berries made a massive impact on the flavor of this drink.
In all fairness, strawberries of that caliber aren’t abundantly available to most people, but it’s worth treating yourself to the best you can find at peak season to make this delicious sum-of-its-parts drink. The original recipe calls for white rum, but it’s also great with tequila blanco or London Dry style gin.
1 ½ oz (44 ml) good white rum or other base spirit of choice
½ oz (15 ml) Fernet bitter liqueur
½ oz (15 ml ) orange curaçao
¾ oz (22 ml) fresh lime juice
¼ oz (8 ml ) simple syrup
2 small strawberries
2 sprigs mint sprig (one for garnish)
Muddle the strawberries and 1 sprig of mint in a shaker. Add all the remaining ingredients and ice. Shake until well chilled. Double strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with mint sprig.
Daiquiri-ish Thing, Shaken, Not Frozen
I love a frozen drink now and again when I’m out and the mood strikes, but I no longer have a blender, so I leave those to the bar pros in the wild.
If the mood strikes at home, I’ve figured out how to make a tropical-feeling drink with just a regular cocktail shaker and ice.
The standard recipe for a Daiquiri calls for rum. I have found that cognac (which I sometimes keep in the freezer in summertime anyway) is delightful here, as well as rye or tequila reposado. You want gin or bourbon? I don’t see why that wouldn’t work just as well. You could even mix and match a bit and see what happens. You have 2 oz (60 ml) to play with.
As with the Negroni above, allow some time for the strawberries and base spirit to hang out before proceeding with the next steps.
2 large strawberries or 4 smaller ones, hulled and sliced
2 oz (60 ml) base spirit of choice
½ oz (30 ml) freshly squeezed lime juice
¼ oz (8 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 bar spoon agave nectar or simple syrup (or more to taste)
Garnish: whole strawberry
In a rocks glass, combine the sliced berries and whatever base spirits you are using, and let sit for at least 15 to 20 minutes. Add the contents of that glass to a shaking tin, with the rest of the ingredients and shake until very well chilled and frothy. Double strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with a whole strawberry on the rim.