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February 6, 2025

Scenes from Ramallah

Dear Friends,

We had a HUGE rain and windstorm yesterday - like a strong blizzard, but with rain. It was 45 degrees, but according to my phone it felt like 22 - I didn’t know it gets so cold here!

Each day I’ve been going for a walk, exploring different parts of Ramallah.

A view from a hilltop of a small city of off-white buildings,  blue sky with clouds, over a small city of off-white buildings
A view of the city, across the street from my hotel

Naturally, food is over-represented in my photos 😋

A fruit stand with a giant pile of huge strawberries, and some other fruit (oranges and grapes)
Fruit stand with gorgeous display of strawberries

Grapes, beans, bags of chestnuts, and bags of oranges at a fruit stand
Also with grapes, beans, chestnuts, and oranges

Flat whole grain rolls with a hole in the center, with oat flakes and seeds
I haven’t tried these, but they look like whole grain flagels!

Bright green frozen drink in a tall glass, with a straw, a slice of lemon, and fresh mint
The most wonderful frozen mint lemonade

Clockwise from top left: lentil soup with toast; omelet with many side dishes; sliced cucumber, rolls, and Za'atar on flat bread; a salad made of cucumber cut like noodles, and chicken slices
Some of the delicious food I’ve been eating

Two restaurants; one called Café de la Paix, and the other called Heart Attack (the latter with Arabic writing in addition to English)
Lots of different types of restaurants in the city

A 3-story modern building that says Ramallah City Hall, and text in Arabic, with Palestinian flags in front
City Hall of Ramallah, a vibrant modern city founded in the 16th century

Electric car charging station on the side of a road, in front of a stone wall
Electric car charging station

Striped gray cat sitting on the ground at the bottom of stairs
Missing my kitty. Zara, this one’s for you!

Outside Ramallah’s famous Stars and Bucks Cafe

At Al-Manara Square

A man driving a donkey with a cart, and two cars - one with yellow license plate and one with a white license plate
Three types of transportation

In this last photo, we see three modes of transportation: there’s a donkey, and then there are two cars - one with a yellow license plate (Israeli), another with a white plate (Palestinian). The road system here is segregated, where the color of your license plate determines which roads you can drive on. White license plates are for most Palestinians. Yellow plates are for three groups: Jews, including those who are settlers in the West Bank, Palestinian citizens of Israel, and Palestinians who live in Jerusalem - who are ‘residents’ of Israel, though not citizens. The most efficient highways are limited only to Israeli license plates. Drivers on Palestinian roads face extensive delays due to indirect routes, as well as checkpoints and regular - often unexpected - road blocks set up by the Israeli military. Israel says these restrictions are required for security. To be clear, these categories are not about location - it’s a system that’s primarily divided by ethnicity.

As promised, the next postcard will be about my hotel, and in the one after that, I’ll explain why I’m here!

Be well.

Salaam,

Nancy

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