Do I feel safe?
Dear Friends,
The answer is yes - I do feel safe. Ramallah has been described as a bubble. All is calm in this city, and it is rare to see an Israeli soldier here in the center of town, during the day.
Ramallah is the economic and cultural hub of the West Bank. It’s located just 12 miles north of Jerusalem. In relation to cities you may have read about in the news, it’s about 50 miles north of Gaza, and about 60 miles south of Jenin.
Everyone I meet says how difficult it is now to move around the West Bank because of checkpoints and fear of violence from Israeli settlers. People who live outside city limits describe waiting in checkpoints for MANY HOURS to reach their destination.
Palestinians must go through Israeli military checkpoints to move between Palestinian cities and towns - to go to work, school, hospitals, to visit relatives, and even to their own land. This video by AP shows the checkpoints near Ramallah just a couple of weeks ago.
Because I have not left Ramallah and the nearby town of Birzeit since I arrived, I have not seen a single soldier, checkpoint, or settler.
Among Palestinians, I feel very safe. People are warm, welcoming, and so kind. The first sentences of the Visit Ramallah website match my experience exactly: Ramallah is an exceptionally safe city with a welcoming community where theft and violence are rare. Visitors to the city may enjoy walking the streets at night without fear of being attacked or robbed. Tourists may feel free to ask for directions or help without worrying about being taken advantage of and Ramallahites are typically eager to assist.
I can confirm! I get lost often, so I ask for help a lot. Here’s what happened on three such occasions.
(1) I was on my way to a pilates class at a local studio called Fitbox, about half an hour walking from my hotel.
I left my hotel at dusk, and thought I would remember the way. I did not! I found myself near one of my favorite places, Zain Bakery. This bakery is open from morning until late at night, with fresh treats coming out at all hours.
I went inside and asked for help, but no one knew about Fitbox. It had grown dark and had started raining, and I didn’t think I would make it to my pilates class. The staff asked every customer, and found a man who said his wife goes there - and he offered to drive me! I gratefully accepted, and I made it in time for my class.
(2) I also got lost on my way to a local French school, the Lycée Français. I put the name of the school into Google Maps, and set off on what the app said would be a 40-minute walk. But Google Maps and Apple Maps don’t work well here. Nearly an hour later, I arrived … and realized it was not the right place!
Instead, there was a kitchen design store. So I went in and asked if they would call a taxi for me. “Yes, of course,” the kind man said. “But first let us make you some coffee.” I was concerned about being late to the school, but appreciated such warm hospitality. The coffee came out, and we had a nice chat. He said he loves people from the US, even though he does not like the policies of the US government (umm, same). After coffee and a brief conversation, he was ready to call a taxi. He explained to the driver on the phone exactly where I needed to go.
The first floor of the store was under construction, but while we waited for the cab he offered to show me the showroom on the second floor. WOW. I have never seen more beautiful kitchens. Unfortunately, I spilled what was left of my coffee on the counter in the first display!
Once I was in the taxi, the man from the kitchen store called the driver to make sure everything was ok and we were en route to the school!
(3) This week, I followed directions to a stationery store (which they call a library). I wandered around, but once again - I did not find what I was looking for.
I went into a different store to ask for help. This time, someone walked with me directly to my destination. Mission accomplished: I bought my notebooks.
I appreciate the concern that many of you have expressed for my safety. People in Ramallah often remark how privileged they are, compared to those elsewhere in the West Bank, and especially compared to people in Gaza. Still, there is real fear for the future. Palestinians worry that their fate could be the same as their relatives in 1948 (expelled from their lands), or the same as what has happened recently in Gaza and in the northern part of the West Bank.
At the same time, people here enjoy life every day, with endless hope for better days ahead.
Salaam,
Nancy
MORE INFORMATION ABOUT CHECKPOINTS:
Even ambulances are held at checkpoints, which Israel asserts is necessary for security purposes. Earlier this month, 10-year-old Saddam Rajab was shot by Israeli soldiers, and later died after his ambulance was delayed at a checkpoint.
The excellent Academy-award-nominated short The Present is a beautiful 20-minute film that shows the experiences at a West Bank checkpoint for a father and his young daughter.
