Oct. 7, 2024, 7:40 p.m.

Steve walks 20.5 miles with a full pack

The Cuatro Amigos

Camino de Santiago

Remember that horse statue from Logrono?  Well one of us had the cajones of the horse of General Escuela today, and decide to hike an extra 5K, all up hill, to start the day.  The others (nameless) took a taxi and met the cajones guy at the top of the hill in Foncebadon.

All four of us could honestly state:

  1. That was a heck of hill!

  2. Man that was steep!

  3. Phew, those taxi drivers sure drive fast!

After several days of fields and more fields, we were back in the mountains again! 

Just after breakfast in Foncebadon
Yeah, that’s rain moving in

I didn’t know Spain had another set of mountains for us to cross!  Fortunately, we were already on top, and had great views throughout the day.

Note the jacket and the buff. It was in the 40’s when we started.

Within a mile or so we came upon the Cruz de Ferro, or the iron cross.  This mountain has been a special place for over 2500 years to all sorts of people. The Celts liked this place because it was so high, and easy to defend, and the Romans had a monument to Mercury here (big traveler, that Mercury) since it was a crossroads for them.  In the 10th century an iron cross was erected here.  It’s still here, but now has a hill of rocks about 25 feet tall, and 30 yards wide surrounding.  And it’s growing.

Cruz de Ferro. The sheer number of rocks is very moving

Pilgrims have been leaving a rock here for hundreds of years (kind of like a leave a rock, but dont take a rock bin) as a symbol of maybe releasing themselves of a burden, or to say a special prayer for someone.  It can be a pretty powerful place.  We all brought stones from home that meant something to us (I’ll leave that part undisclosed) and left them on the growing pile. 

Here’s ours
A sample of others

There were several pilgrims who spent quite a bit of time here.

The cuatro amigos

It rained on and off for most of the day, sometimes hard, sometimes just enough to make the trail muddy and slippery.  We all relied on our trekking poles… we needed the added stability since there were some dangerous descents.

You have to keep your eye on the trail,and cant enjoy the scenery at times like this
Note the rain cover on the pack. We needed it.

One of my go to phrases is “If the winter were not so harsh, the spring would not be so sweet”. That gem came to mind today when it stopped raining, and coming out of dark forest area, we were treated to some beautiful blue skies!

This little town of Riego de Ambros had a neat vibe to it.

With about 4 miles left of our hike we came upon the town of Molinaseca… where a cold beer was waiting for us.

On a separate note, We’ve all been keeping up on getting stamps for our credentials at churches, cafe’s and shops. Here’s what mine looks like so far… I’ve almost got two full

Our destination today was Ponferrada. This town sports its own Knights of Templar castle right in the center of town. It was built in order to help protect pilgrims along the Camino, among other reasons.

Very imposing!
Finally, there was an awesome old bridge that brings you in to Molinaseca. After 13 miles, on really rough rocky trails, our feet hurt and we were whipped. There’s Andy and Steve soaking their feet in the river.

A close up of the soakers. Yes, the water was freezing.

Drew eventually joined us, but chose his own way to relax.

Buen Camino all!

You just read issue #26 of The Cuatro Amigos. You can also browse the full archives of this newsletter.

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