Sept. 19, 2024, 1:55 p.m.

#8 Blown Away… Almost

The Cuatro Amigos

Camino de Santiago

On the “rest day” in Pamplona i walked 19,347 steps.  That included several side trips to churches and wall walking, but also a 3 mile round trip to get expoxy and and a hose clamp to fix Drew’s hiking stick. (It worked!)

That along with the full day hiking led to no newsletter the next day.

Steve is not driving us nuts.  Yet. But poor WiFi has led to no newsletters for the previous days.

Our days are filled with hiking, and getting stamps from bars, hotels and churches to fill up our credential.  When complete, you show this credential to the church they verify that yes you visited all these places on your way to reach Santiago. If approved you receive an official “Compostela” completion certificate . It’s very cool. Here’s mine so far, one week in

One of my side trips in Pamplona was to St Lorenzo church, where the statue of St Fermin is kept 364 days of the year.  Then, one day in July, they parade him around during the running of the bulls. 

I wanted to see the statue, get a stamp,and got there at about 8PM… knowing the church closes at 8:30PM.  It was open… but in the middle of mass.  the choir was lovely, and I actually stayed and took communion!  I thought id get the stamp right after the mass, but that turned into social time with the parishioners, and after the deacon literally pushed everyone out, and the priest locked the doors, the deacon stamped my credential which i appreciated.  Drew’s quote was: Come for the stamp, stay for the salvation!

After the mass the parishioners continued their socializing outside the front door!

Our hike the next day led us up to the Alto de Perdon, or height of Forgiveness.  It was the windiest hike we had ever been on.  It makes sense there were so many wind turbines on top!  These sculptures were on the very top.  Both sides of the mountain were crazy windy.

Sculpture at the top

The land we’re walking through has some great fields filled with healthy asparagus , beans, and sunflowers.  However, Drew commented on this one we saw:

Guillermo:. Hey Pedro! How’s your rock crop this year? Pedro: Fantastico! just look!
No kidding, this closeup shows the whole field was rocks! Not sure what they are gonna grow there!?

Some ruins that we could not get too. Rats.

hay stacked in towers

Fun way to plant succulents

Lunch

Steve talked me and Drew into a two mile detour ( thats far when carrying a pack) to Santa Maria Eunate church.  It was built in 1075 and has many ties to the knights Templar (Cue Curse of Oak Island field trip!). Even in the hot weather it was worth the detour.

view of the church. 33 arches and you need to walk around three times then through the main entrance it adds up to 100. Numerology perhaps

Cool corbels

Corbel faces almost 1000 years old

Alabaster windows!

I came out around the corner and found this unposed picture… the green grass was very cool to the touch!

There was a vending machine nearby that sold beer and Aquarius which is like an orange soda. Hit the spot!

Our destination that day was Puente De la Reine, or Queens Bridge. 

The doorway (tympanum) of 11th century church in Puente de la Reine

Detail of doorway sculpture

A cool little town, with a beautiful bridge from the 12th century

The queens bridge

Andy and Steve

Terry

To end this letter, let me share what a typical day is like:

Wake up.

Brush teeth, do your hair, pack your pack all over again because your crap is everywhere

Get out the door by 8 typically when the Albergue wants you out.

Walk about 3 miles

Stop for cafe con leche and a croissant at a cafe

Hike some more, see sites, get stamps

Thank god for no rain (try and find Jesus again)

Check in at Albergue, shower, and put on your clean clothes that you will wear the rest of the day, and most of tomorrow until you can shower again

Drew hanging his laundry

Do laundry of the clothes you wore today, either by hand, or pay 7-8 Euros to use their machines

Have a brewski, find a place to stay the next night via booking.com or whats app, sometimes 2 nights out!

Write a newsletter

Get some dinner

Finish writing newsletter

In bed by 9ish

Fall asleep as you think of Mindy whom you miss very much.

You just read issue #9 of The Cuatro Amigos. You can also browse the full archives of this newsletter.

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