Sept. 15, 2024, 3:50 p.m.

#5 Down and Out (of the Pyrenees)

The Cuatro Amigos

Camino de Santiago

A 15 mile day today from Zubiri to Pamplona.  Still in Basque country, which is great. Temperature in the 40’s when we started, now 62 in Pamplona… though it feels 80 in the sun.  Here are several pics from this morning:

A 12th century church in the middle of nowhere (That’s the 1100’s to you and me)
Pretty horses
Hell of a decline… hard on the knees
more creepy forests

I only saw this sign because everyone was taking a picture of it

Walking along the river, with a Spanish family in front of us

Here’s the hotel from the movie “The Way” where Martin Sheen watched the hotelier play a matador with a red tablecloth

Came upon a karaoke/dance party at 9AM this morning… and Maria and Beneto (in line skater and unicycler) were already having a beer.  In fact the only time i see them is with an Estrella Galicia beer in hand.  However, Maria made my day by saying “Ahndee, help me on” as she used my shoulder to get on her unicylce.  My heart went all a-flutter that she remembered my name!

Benito and Maria dancing

The two of them leaving us in the dust

Once again, we come out of the woods to some Camino magic, a beautiful cafe right on the river. A bridge, river, sun, coffee, pastries, friends… perfect setting in the tiny village of Zurain.

Lovely place for ok and a pastry
…and we found Jesus. Again

Pilgrim sculpture outside this busy cafe

At this same cafe we found our friends Eloise from Canada, and Elias from Cyprus who we met on day one.

We collected Miranda (Australia) and Matt (New Zealand) and continued to walk together.  I convinced the group to take a detour off the Camino, straight up this hill in  the hot sun to St Stephen’s church.  It’s a 13th century church where if you’re lucky, nice and holy, you get to climb the church tower and ring the bell!  We met sister Maria (a nun, not the unicycler) in the nave, and she loved hearing about where we were from, and she shared the history of the church.  She said the real Camino was the trail we just walked up to the church, and the one we detoured off of was made within the past 50 years.  Cool stuff.

St Stephen’s (Estaban)

Inside

Climbing the bell tower

At the top

We gave Estaban the honor of ringing the bell first in St Estaban. By the time we all rang the bell, the townspeople below were screaming “what the hell time is it?!”

Matt on the way down

matt Steve terry outside St Estaban

Miranda called me her “Camino Angel” for the day because she did not know about the church, the sisters, or the bell, and she just loved it. It was no kiss from Maria (the unicycler, not the nun) but it was nice to hear.

Finally, we reached Pamplona (Iruna in Basque) a fantastic walled city named after Pompey, a Roman general way back when.  We took the long way to our hostel on purpose to see some sights, but since its Sunday, most everything is closed.  We liked what we saw and decided to stay another day!

Andy and Drew approaching Pamplona

A neat house on the way

New friend jeff from Toronto demonstrating one of the many water fountains along the Camino

Magdalene Bridge to get us to the walled city

Our first site of walls around Pamplona

The gate and draw bridge

Backside of gate showing the counterweights to the draw bridge

I have always loved forts
Hemingway statue. More about him tomorrow.

The common room in our hostel in Pamplona where I am writing this newsletter

Lastly, we decided to teach our new friend Eloise how to play RISK in the common room!

As RISK games go, it lasted several hours. However, we treated Eloise just like she was one of our sisters, and we eliminated her from the game within minutes.

You just read issue #6 of The Cuatro Amigos. You can also browse the full archives of this newsletter.

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