Sept. 13, 2024, 7:40 p.m.

#3 Looking down on clouds

The Cuatro Amigos

Camino de Santiago

A beautiful sunrise this morning, and we continued to climb.  We’re still on the Camino de Santiago, and it’s amazing to think that pilgrims for 1000 years have walked this very route.  This stretch is the Napoleon Way because back in 1800 or so he retreated from Spain via this route. Some might say the sunrise was udderly fantastic!

Yes, we walked above the clouds so we would not get rained on (true story! Kinda) but look at the number of pilgrims on the road going up the hill in the background! Can’t be lonely on the Camino!

We started out full of energy, and high spirits.  Once we got above the clouds, oh yeah, we did, we got some beautiful views of the Pyrenees mountains as we headed to a peak 1450 meters high.

Yeah that ended quickly  as the winds picked up and the sun did not come out until about 3K from our destination, and after 5 hours of hiking.

Here’s some cool pictures of “The Virgin of Pyrenees” which was super cool to see her high on a mountain vista:

  We wore many if not most of the clothes we brought…  Terry opted for trend setting socks on his hands because he did not bring any gloves.

One of the big sites on our trail today was the Monastery at Roncesvalles. It was founded in the 1300’s in the middle of a mountain pass, super close to the border of Spain and France. Not only did the monasteries support the church’s causes, but they acted as rest stops and hospital for pilgrims.  In fact, in this little hamlet, all that is here is the monastery (now and Albergue with 180 beds!) a church, a hotel a restaurant and a chapel or two. Right in the middle of nowhere. Here’s a view from the trail… a very welcome sight after 12 miles of wind and fog!

We met Ellen from Holland and Jeanine from Germany, and we walked the final few miles to Roncesvalles together

In roncesvalles, We got our stamp, popped in the church, and had drinks in the sun with Alex from London, and Miranda from Melbourne, Australia.  It was lovely.

Drinks in the sun. I actually had hot chocolate which was like a melted Hershey bar. Excellent:

Duly refreshed it was only another 3K to our Casa Rural (bed and breakfast like) in the town of Burguette.  Hemingway stayed here right down the street from us, and fished in the river out back.

Before Drew takes over, here are a few more misc pictures from the day:

This not a bad picture, just us walking through the clouds makes it seem blurry

Drew again. The sunrise was SPECTACULAR. It got super cold and foggy almost immediately, which was also cool to look at but took a toll. All of the pilgrims who set out with us this morning stopped at the same food truck where a man was selling his homemade cheese (delicious), hardboiled eggs, and coffee.

At the food truck!

Once we got onto the other side of the mountain, where it was forested and less windy we were back in high spirits.

Super spooky forest right off the trail. Fangorn forest-like (LOTR reference)

We crossed from France into Spain and had a picnic of cheese and packed sandwiches to celebrate.Homemade cheese from the dude’s own sheep!

The downhill miles were much welcome, sunny and full of ripe blackberries along the trail. I feel a little bad because I didn’t leave a single berry for any pilgrims behind us. Oh well, their loss. Be faster next time.

Had a good dinner at the only place that was open at 7pm because the Spaniards eat LATE! Also for those playing Camino Bingo, yes there was a minor knee injury but this is your ONLY gimme!

Once again, calling it a night at 9:30 cause we are beat. Buenas noches.

You just read issue #4 of The Cuatro Amigos. You can also browse the full archives of this newsletter.

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