Oct. 13, 2024, 3:51 p.m.

#28 Found a bed bug. Then another. Then a tick. Then we hightailed it outta there.

The Cuatro Amigos

Camino de Santiago

We had a 15 mile day ahead of us so we started hiking at 6:55AM.  On our first day of hiking in France sunrise was at 7:58AM.  Now the sun rises at 8:40AM!  huh?  Oh yeah, we have been hiking a month, I guess we should have expected that.

So an hour walk in the dark is not always so fun, but we do like getting to our destination at a decent time.

Pretty Galicia. A horrea, a church, and a wayside cross all in one picture in one of the towns we crossed.

Talked with Aidan from Dublin Ireland today, which made the time go fast.  I was singing “Wild wild life” by the talking heads, and he turned around and asked if I was singing “My mommas gone” which after he sang a few bars, sounded just like mine.  Anyway, that led to a nice conversation and 30 minutes zipped by.

Horse posing for me

This dog named “Peachy” stood guard on his stump in front of his owners store. He drew people in!

Like Drew
Really green fields here. Lots of rain.

One of the last two medieval bridges before we get to Santiago

So, viewer mail is asking whats with the scallop shell anyway?  There are a few legends out there as to why the scallop shell is the symbol of the Camino.  Most if not all the statues of St James show a shell or two on his clothing.  One story goes that when his two disciples delivered his body to Spain, their ship was smashed in a storm, and they later found St James’ bones protected by scallop shells on the beach.  Another one is that when the disciples came to Galicia, their boat scared a wedding party, and the bride’s horse jumped in the river, almost drowning the bride.  St james interceded and the bride arose from the water covered in scallop shells.  I think the one I like best is that like “all roads lead to Rome”, all Caminos lead to Santiago.  So looking at a scallop shell you could see that all the lines (ridges) in the shell lead to one point…. Santiago.  While the Camino Frances is the Camino we are on,there at least 5 others that I know of covering all of Spain that all end at Santiago.

I can find at least nine on this St James.

Leaving Melide today, the weather was great… getting up into the 70’s. You see all types here… we are sweating in shorts and t-shirts, and other hikers are in long pants, puffy coats and ear warmers. You can tell the hikers who started in Sarria… their clothes are WAY cleaner, and WAY brighter.

this fruit stand popped up just when we needed it. Fruit, some smoothies, even a beer if you wanted.

For several weeks, eggs and bacon for breakfast everyday was heaven. But then, it got a little old, so the possibility of having some grapes and strawberries for the first time in a month hit home.

Andy: I could really go for some pancakes. Even a waffle will do.

Drew: yeah, we need to find a Roberto Evans.

I think he’s funny.

I’m afraid this is what my house and garden will look like when I return

This is a lavanderia. Several towns we walk through have them. It’s where the townsfolk used to wash thier laundry… usually by a spring, or other source of water.
Many sunken roads here. There’s a science to determine how old a road is by how deep it has eroded into the landscape. Like a foot every 100 years?

We were going to stay in the hamlet of Ribadiso al baixo, right by a river to soak our feet. However, while checking out the bed situation at our albergue, Drew notice a bug on his bed and called me over. Drew:“Dad, Is that a bedbug?”

Andy:. “ I think so. He looks pretty full, too.” So I crushed him in my fingers (the bug, not Drew) and yep, he was full of blood. Yuck.

Terry: What do we do?

Drew: Oh crap, here’s another!

Terry took a picture of it, and with his apple phone wizardry, confirms “Oh yeah, thats a bed bug.”

Steve:. I think we should leave. We didn’t pay yet, and we haven’t touched a thing.

Andy: I dont know…

Steve:. Shit, there’s another one on this bed! (Turns out it was tick!)

All: let’s get outta here!

Moments later, Drew told the woman working there:

Drew: We found three “chinches” (Spanish for bed bugs)

Worker: Madre Dios! (Which needed little interpreatation)

She was cool about us moving on, and Drew let our friends who were coming behind us know via What’s APP.

Moving on to the next town of Arzua , we found this guy:

I got a feeling that Kevin Costner had “one of his people” carry his bag if he ever walked the Camino!
Kids on skateboards while we were having a beer in Arzua. A great way to spend an hour.
Here’s the last medieval bridge before Santiago. Terry and I agreed that it was a good looking bridge, and was more medpleasant than medieval .

Finally, after all the excitement of bed bugs, and being two days away from our destination, I decided I needed a little “pick me up” kind of a “daddy’s little helper” kind of drug. I found this soul selling some smack in a park. I slipped her a 50.

i was cool and Did not draw attention to it.

Drew asked “What did you buy, Dad?”

… some Angel Dust

You just read issue #30 of The Cuatro Amigos. You can also browse the full archives of this newsletter.

Share on Facebook
Powered by Buttondown, the easiest way to start and grow your newsletter.