Camino de Santiago
and we got to sleep in one too!
Terry left the albergue at 5:15 this morning… it was his idea. Our goal was to grab four of the twelve beds available at the ruins of San Anton, and he thought if he got there early, he could secure the four beds for us.
Turns out he did get there early, even before the workers arrived! The rest of us were out the door at 6:45.
The Way was pretty, with long views going on for miles and miles. All the cafes were closed when we left Hornillos del Camino, so our first available cafe/bar was in Hontanas, 10.5 k away, or about 6 miles. We were really hungry at about mile 5, and at every rise we crested we hoped to see the spire of a church, or something, designating our town. Hill after hill and nothing! Where is this town? Then we finally saw a church peaking out from a valley
My theory is that everything is so dry here,they built the town of Hotanas in a valley where all the water would run when it did rain! We had a great breakfast there
We visited the church of the Immaculate Conception in Hontanas, and I lit a candle since my birthday is on the feast of the Immaculate Conception, December 8th.
At about 10:30, and 10 miles from our start, we came to the 14th century ruins of the convent of San Anton. The Camino actually goes right under one of its arches!
We found Terry waiting for the rest of us, and learned that the workers (Carmelo, Antonino and Angelica) had gotten there about 3 minutes before we did!
While sitting in the ruins we met Ashley and Max from South Korea. I think they created those names for the Camino. Talking with Max he said “ we not stay here. My wife says Too cold” and he crossed his arms and made shivering motions. I said “I understand, Happy wife, happy life!” He asked me to repeat it, then told it to Ashley in Korean, and she laughed and laughed. Then she asked me look into her video camera and repeat it so she could send it to her friends in Korea!!
The 12 bed albergue offers no electricity, no WiFi, and no hot water! I later realized that they have no electricity and WiFi so that you will “disconnect” from the world while there.
Yet, it is filled to capacity today. Cmon, how many people get to stay in a 14th century ruined church? It was a must for me.
The trees behind the ruins were cared for by this character, Mau.
After checking in, and claiming our bunks, we walked another 3K into the town of Castrojeriz, which did have WiFi and cell phone reception. We had a delicious lunch of burgers and fries, and then visited a few churches/museums.
Steve and I had a beer and a glass of wine (3 Euros!) in town, then caught up with Drew and Terry at another bar.
We eventually took a cab back the the 3K to the ruins because we had already walked 15 miles total that day!
Dinner was a community affair. The 12 pilgrims helped the three volunteers prepare dinner, and clean up!
The stars came out in abundance as there was no light pollution to get in the way! (No electricity remember). We saw the Milky Way big and bold stretch across the sky… which I have not seen in maybe 30 years! We all loved it.
After a cold sleep (no heat here, and it got into the 40’s that night) We had breakfast at 7am. Recall, sunrise is about 8:15 am here.
This day was a highlight for us. Sleeping in ruins, visiting some old old churches, and having a meal with new friends.
Adios for now!