#16 Satan, get thee behind me, and Andy cries on the Camino

Camino de Santiago

A few last words on Burgos which was a favorite place of mine so far. In 1539 King Philippe II said of the beautiful cathedral dome: “It seems more the work of angels then of men.” Spot on, your kingship.

Now to today, we walked along the Burgos’ medieval walls on our way out of town this morning. We got on the road about 8:05AM.

I discovered the name of Satan.  He has been trying to disguise himself, and tempt me, and now uses any one of these three names:

1. Napolitano

2. Pain de Chocolate

3. Chocolate croissant

4. 

No matter how far I walk, nor how many steps I take, he keeps increasing my body weight by calling “Eat me” to me as I try and divert my eyes.  Alas, I am only mortal, and I succumb.  Especially when he gets his minions (the cafe worker) to heat it up first.  Heaven!

Today we started walking in the Meseta.  I liken it to North Dakota, where you can see for miles and miles and the landscape does not change.  We should have 5-6 days more of this kind of landscape. 

They say the first third of the Camino is physical. The second third is mental, and the final third is spiritual.  We started the middle third just yesterday.

A highlight for me today came just outside of Rabe de la Calzadas.  A small hermitage beckoned to us with an open door.

Inside were two sisters/nuns blessing each of the pilgrims.  Sister Baer asked my name, where I was from, and then stamped my credential.  She asked if I would like a blessing, and I said “Oh hell yeah.  Oops sorry sister”. She put a small necklace over my neck with a pendant of the Virgin Mary on it and said a short prayer (while grabbing my head with both her hands) which ended with blessings for me and all pilgrims to the end of our Camino.  It’s been many years since I was blessed by a nun (maybe this was the first) and I got teary eyed, grabbed her hands and thanked her deeply.  It was some powerful shit.

We learned that the other nun, whose name had too many Maria’s, Theresa’s, Santos in it for me to remember, spent the last 34 years in the Congo doing missionary work.  Such dedication. 

Both sisters were so sincere, and seemed actually very happy to see us pilgrims (and I threw a few Euros in the box)

I threw on Spotify to listen to some songs after the nuns, and the first song that came on was “Leaving on Jet Plane” which made me think of Mindy, and 6 foot 4 Andy got teary eyed all over again.  I’m a sap.

Now to some viewer mail:

Question: Is the water safe to drink from the fountains?

Yes, so far we have had no trouble at all.  Not sure if they are spring fed, or from the town, but the water is great! THere’s so many fountains, we dont have to carry too much with us, which is nice.

Question: Are there port-a-potties on the Camino?

No. We’ve not had any issues.  There are enough bars and cafes close enough, and we take a lot of breaks. Or, if  you just buy a bottle of water for a Euro, youre a customer, and welcome to use “the servicios”

Question: Are the four of you chatting the whole walk?

Answer:  Yes, for probably half the time we are telling stories or jokes.  Another quarter of the time we are chatting with pilgrims from all over the world, and the final quarter is Spotify or books on tape which really help on the boring stretches.

Question:  Andy do the women you meet really call you “The Silver Fox”?

Answer: El Zorro plateado, si. Le Renard argenté, oui. чернобурка, dah (from Svetlana).But Silver Fox? Not too often to my face.