The Cuatro Amigos

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#32 The Wrap-up

Are you sitting in a comfortable chair? Is your coffee/beer/warm milk topped off? Finger sandwiches at the ready? This is a long one, but the last one. 

Between the four of us, we had 187 people following us via this newsletter. Holy cow. Thank you to all of you for following us, and thank you to those of you who responded with words of encouragement throughout. It really really helped, and meant so much to to me personally. 

#34
October 29, 2024
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#31 The Cathedral

Uh-oh. Watch out world. I got home yesterday, and am now on a PC, and not my phone with a folding keyboard, so using Buttondown is a BREEZE now! Ugh, I suffered trying to get pictures to load on the Camino. So what this means for you the reader is that I think (since this is now soooo much easier) I will add one more wrap-up newsletter after this one… I plan to get feedback from my Amigos so it might be a few days yet before it is compiled. Stay tuned.

Now to the Cathedral that has been our destination for the past 34 days!

The cathedral is free to enter, and as a Romanesque cathedral it it’s not as “showy” as say a Baroque one, but it is powerful all the same.

#33
October 19, 2024
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#30 The penultimate one (look it up)

Another rainy start, but thats not unusual.  One guy (Ricky, lives on a boat in Sardinia) we’ve been hiking with has shoes treated with gortex to keep water out.  Well during the hurricane hike, he realized that gortex also keeps the water in!  So he had what felt like he had a gallon of water in each shoe! No gortex for us.

We met up with Matt and Miranda last night so we could hike in to Santiago together. We’ve known them since day 3. here we are waiting for the rain to pass (it didn’t) while at an outside cafe for coffee and Santiago cake.

The night before we had dinner with three ladies from Boston. It was at this cafe above that they caught up with us. One of them, Nancy, played without any prompting from me, “One Day More” from Les Miserables! And we all sang it with her… at one point no one knew the words but Drew (of course) and the cafe gave us some weird looks, but hell, we’ll never see them again. Super fun!

The sunken roads even in the rain was cool!
#32
October 16, 2024
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#29 Pick your song title

One Day More - From les Miserables

One more day - Diamond Rio

One more try - George Michael

#31
October 14, 2024
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#28 Found a bed bug. Then another. Then a tick. Then we hightailed it outta there.

We had a 15 mile day ahead of us so we started hiking at 6:55AM.  On our first day of hiking in France sunrise was at 7:58AM.  Now the sun rises at 8:40AM!  huh?  Oh yeah, we have been hiking a month, I guess we should have expected that.

So an hour walk in the dark is not always so fun, but we do like getting to our destination at a decent time.

Pretty Galicia. A horrea, a church, and a wayside cross all in one picture in one of the towns we crossed.
#30
October 13, 2024
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#27 What’s left of Steve rejoins the group

The hike from Sarria to Porto Marin was about 16 miles, and was one of the prettiest so far. 

We have noticed a marked increase in pilgrims since Sarria. Tour groups and student groups come out to hike The Camino for the final 100K

#29
October 11, 2024
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#26 Probably wasn’t the best idea…

We started this wet day in O Cebreiro. A pretty town of stone houses on top of a mountain known for its sunrises. None of which we could see. Estaban, now renamed Estaban el Loco (the Mad) decided to hike up the mountain first. Huh? In the rain and mud.

It was raining medium hard, but we thought we could walk 10-11 miles to a town, and then decide how to proceed.   We made it  5 miles. And then the skies and wind opened up. I heard a whole new kind of “ wind roaring” in this tempest!

Starting out “happy”. What a view (if it wasn’t raining)
#28
October 9, 2024
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#25 You can’t buy gum in Singapore

I had a nice walk with a Chupacandile last night in Ponferrada.  He and his cohorts announce the holy seasons in town, but all he did was scare me.

Putting a brave face on.

Some heavy misty rain took place much of the day, but we got about 5 hours of hiking in before it really started.

#27
October 8, 2024
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Steve walks 20.5 miles with a full pack

Remember that horse statue from Logrono?  Well one of us had the cajones of the horse of General Escuela today, and decide to hike an extra 5K, all up hill, to start the day.  The others (nameless) took a taxi and met the cajones guy at the top of the hill in Foncebadon.

All four of us could honestly state:

  1. That was a heck of hill!

  2. Man that was steep!

  3. Phew, those taxi drivers sure drive fast!

#26
October 7, 2024
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#23 Balloons

After I had already sent out yesterday’s newsletter, we had a lovely vegetarian meal at our Albergue, with most of the vegetables grown right in their garden.  You donated/paid whatever you felt was appropriate.  Our hosts treated us to a musical grace/prayer before dinner

(The owners dog is preganant, and he said “in two months we will have many poopies” and “if anyone wants poopies, please let me know”)

#25
October 7, 2024
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#22 You do your Camino and I’ll do mine

Question:  Would you pay $5.60 for a train ride from Sahagun to Leon and cut out a good 30 miles of walking through fields?

Answer: Yes I would, and yes we did.

We caught the 8:34a train to Leon, and 45 minutes later we were in the bustling city of Leon.  This might be our favorite city so far… even better than Burgos.  For those non-lovers of all thingsRoman, the town bar comes from the Latin Legios/Legion for one of the Roman Legions stationed here.  Sadly, not for cool lions jumping out of manhole covers

#24
October 5, 2024
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#21 The long and not so winding road

Our day in the city of Leon was and we took so many pictures that and I will have to write about that day later when we have better WiFi .  I’m skipping to today, because while pretty, today was exceedingly uneventful.  And 18 %#&1!^@ miles.  A good portion of it was on long straight roads like this

No kidding… straight for as far as you can see. Maybe 4 cars passed us all day.

We crossed over a highway. I tried to think of as many songs as I could with the word highway in it… and came up with 5. How about you? We needed something to pass the time.

#23
October 5, 2024
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#20 We reach Sahagun! (Or Shogun as Steve would say)

Sahagun {Sah-ha-goon} was our destination. Once again we were treated to some beautiful sunrises on our hike.

#22
October 4, 2024
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#19 Finding every rock a Roman has ever ruined

We left our monastery hostel just in time to see their bread delivery!

Add Columbus to your route please

It rained today.  A lot.  Here is our friend Laney getting ready to hike 17 miles… her coat apparatus is made to cover her pack as well.  She’s from England “where there is no bad weather, only poor attire choices.”

#21
October 3, 2024
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#18 The Long and Winding Road (to sing with the nuns)

A few more pics from San Anton, before we get to the new newsletter.

Maybe I’m excited, or maybe I’m boring someone with a lesson in architecture and history. Probably the latter.
PrIya shared her nighttime sky pictures with us! Great stars.
#20
October 2, 2024
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#17 My life is in ruins

and we got to sleep in one too!

Terry left the albergue at 5:15 this morning… it was his idea.  Our goal was to grab four of the twelve beds available at the ruins of San Anton, and he thought if he got there early, he could secure the four beds for us.

Turns out he did get there early, even before the workers arrived!  The rest of us were out the door at 6:45.

#19
October 1, 2024
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#16 Satan, get thee behind me, and Andy cries on the Camino

A few last words on Burgos which was a favorite place of mine so far. In 1539 King Philippe II said of the beautiful cathedral dome: “It seems more the work of angels then of men.” Spot on, your kingship.

View while waiting for dinner last night

Now to today, we walked along the Burgos’ medieval walls on our way out of town this morning. We got on the road about 8:05AM.

#18
September 28, 2024
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#15 Fantastico Burgos

Ever wonder where the term “blue bloods” came from? As in “He’s a real blue blood.” During the Muslim era in Spain (711-1492 CE) there was a great deal of intermarrying between indigenous elites, Arabs/Moors and Jews. Those who refused to marry 'outsiders' (like the nobles of Castile, where we are now) called themselves sangre azul -- blue bloods, meaning much the same as purebred. As part of their ‘pure Gothic’ descent, they would claim never to have intermarried with another race by drawing attention to their pale skin, which made the blueness of their veins visible.

Me?  I’m an American mutt… a little bit of everything in me.

#17
September 27, 2024
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#14 Finally some religion (and a little bit of heresy)

So who was St James? 

James (the greater) was one of Jesus’s 12 disciples.  He was mending his fishing nets one day with his brother John when Jesus found them and said “C’mon.  Let me make you fishers of men” or something similar.  According to legend, James came to Spain in 40AD though little if anything survives to prove this.  Some records show he converted maybe 6 people while here.  He returned to Jerusalem, where King Herod had him beheaded, (though James caught his own head and held it close to his chest, which can be tricky)  and then had his bones thrown outside the city walls. Two of his followers picked up the pieces (gross) and traveled in a stone boat back to Spain, and buried him in tomb with his name on it on a hill in Santiago.

He lay there, resting in peace, until 814AD when a hermit named Pelayo followed a trail of stars in the sky that led right to his tomb.  The towns full name, Santiago de Compostella, give credence to this in that “compo” can be translated as “field” and “stella” means “stars” so “Saint Iago in the field of stars.” Pelayo contacted the local bishop Theodomir who confirmed these were the bones of St. James.  To do this, I think Theodomir must have had an awesome reference library back in 814AD!  Anyway Theodomir told the king what they found, and a small chapel was built on the site… with a Cathedral being completed in 1188.  And millions of people have been coming to see St. James’ bones ever since.

#16
September 26, 2024
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#13 The chicken dance takes on a whole new meaning

Before I forget, you can respond to these newsletters with questions or comments.  Only I get to actually view them. If you do respond, share your name with me because i may not recognize your email.  Early on I thought I might get 20 people who would be interested in following our trip…  I can bore my friends easily, and well, my family knew that years ago.  Anyway, from the four of us, somehow we have 168 people (as of today) following us!  Wowza. The vacationing god of protein must be smiling on us.  (See previous newsletter if you are new here.)

We left Azofra yesterday after breakfast where I met Ben from the Falkland Islands.  I only include that because we know there are more sheep than redisdents in the Falklands, so I made sure I introduced myself. 

#15
September 24, 2024
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#12 The best €1.60 I ever spent!

The St Martin wine festival was going strong in Logrono, Spain when we arrived.  Thus, available accommodations were severely limited.  We found a hotel used by truckers, as noted by these pictures

The view from our hotel

#14
September 22, 2024
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#11 We started in the dark and it just got darker

Before we start on today, here’s a few more pics and stories from last night.

First Sangria of the trip

#13
September 20, 2024
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#10b The accordionist

Sorry forgot the accordionist from the previous newsletter. She was right where two forks of the trail came back together, and by the amount of coins in her bag she was making out ok! Drew and I think she was playing the theme from Tetris!

Or maybe she was playing “lady of Spain”?
#12
September 20, 2024
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#10 A blacksmith, a Taiwanese, and an accordionist walk into a bar…

Last night in Estrella we were treated to dance competition and show by the kids on the fountain in one of the town squares.

Spicegirlwannabees

We left by about 7:30 the next morning, and bought some bananas in the market for the trail.  Super cheap, and sooo necessary.

#11
September 19, 2024
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#9 Seven days in and we finally see some Roman shit! (copy)

Drew here: Last nights dinner was the best one we’ve had so far. We asked our very hippy Albergue hosts (called hospitalero/as) for recommendations and she pointed us to Vinocteca Ganbara, right around the corner. It was all locally sourced food and prepared in the region’s style of cuisine. The best dish was fresh red peppers (this region is known for their peppers and this is their peak season!) grilled and drenched in local olive oil, with tuna and fresh black pepper. It was so good we ordered a second dish without the tuna.

#10
September 19, 2024
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#8 Blown Away… Almost

On the “rest day” in Pamplona i walked 19,347 steps.  That included several side trips to churches and wall walking, but also a 3 mile round trip to get expoxy and and a hose clamp to fix Drew’s hiking stick. (It worked!)

That along with the full day hiking led to no newsletter the next day.

#9
September 19, 2024
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#7 Steve is driving us crazy

Don’t even look for pictures or text. Just read the subject line again.

#8
September 17, 2024
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#6 Amigos mutiny and demand a rest day!

On day two in Pamplona we actually slept in until 8AM this morning.  The “free” breakfast consisted of toast with jelly, coffee, and some juice called multi-fruita, which really left multi-aftertastes.

We visted the Pamplona Cathedral this morning that was beautiful and very moving. For another 3 Euros, I talked the boys into the Cathedral Museo to see excavations, and wonderful sculptures and religious items connected to the Cathedral.  The Cathedral was started in 1075, and over the next 500 years was burned, demolished in war, burned again, etc until the final version withstood the test of time.

#7
September 16, 2024
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#5 Down and Out (of the Pyrenees)

A 15 mile day today from Zubiri to Pamplona.  Still in Basque country, which is great. Temperature in the 40’s when we started, now 62 in Pamplona… though it feels 80 in the sun.  Here are several pics from this morning:

A 12th century church in the middle of nowhere (That’s the 1100’s to you and me)
Pretty horses
Hell of a decline… hard on the knees
#6
September 15, 2024
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#4 Interesting people and Jesus returns!

Hola!    We walked a good twenty miles to get to this spot yesterday… a famous sign everyone takes their picture in front of. 

790 kilometers (about 480 miles) is misleading.  That’s how far it is to drive.  Not how long it takes to walk, climb mountains, see the sites, nor find the best pastries (which i have walked miles for).

We walked through the spooky forest where a witches coven was supposed to be in 1525.  Yeah, five were burned at the stake.  This Basque name translates to “White witches forest”.

#5
September 14, 2024
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#3 Looking down on clouds

A beautiful sunrise this morning, and we continued to climb.  We’re still on the Camino de Santiago, and it’s amazing to think that pilgrims for 1000 years have walked this very route.  This stretch is the Napoleon Way because back in 1800 or so he retreated from Spain via this route. Some might say the sunrise was udderly fantastic!

#4
September 13, 2024
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#2 We get religion

Oh my goodness what a great day! I’ll get right to pictures of the day as we cross the Pyrenees!

High up in the Pyrenees
up up up

#3
September 12, 2024
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#1 Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

Thankfully there were no surprises in our traveling and we all made it to Madrid airport just fine.  It reminded me of one of my favorite movies “Love Actually” whose ending scene is of the arrivals gate at Heathrow… everyone happy to see their family members and loved ones arrive safely.  That’s how I felt coming out of customs at the Madrid airport into a room with 200 people, some with flowers, excited to welcome the weary travelers.  Only, i was looking for Drew and Steve who got there an hour earlier. (Though Drew did enjoy a bus ride to all 4 terminals, finally ending up at the right one) Fortunately for all of us, Drew was easy to spot wearing a day-glo green shirt he bought at a thrift store for $1.  Spotted him from several gates away.

#2
September 12, 2024
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Welcome!

Welcome!  You subscribed correctly to the Cuatro Amigos newsletter.  (I sure hope the actual pilgrimage/adventure will be less stressful than setting up this newsletter was!)  Supposedly I'll/we'll be able to respond to your emails through this site, but there will be no teenager on this trip with us so don't get your hopes up.

I'll keep this short on purpose.  The four of us meet in Madrid on 9/11, and then travel to the start of our journey in St Jean Pied de Port (Foot of the Pass) that night.  Our "hike" begins on 9/12! Maybe we will finish the 500+ mile hike on 10/18.  I hope to send somewhat daily pictures of what we're up to. Wish us luck! 

Feel free to send this link to other friends or relatives who you think might be interested in following us:  The Cuatro Amigos • Buttondown 


#1
August 9, 2024
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