Root: Historic Food for The Modern World

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June 24, 2024

Readings on the origins of things

Plus a recipe for smoked strawberry-poblano sauce that's perfect for your summer cookout

Image from the Currywurst Museum in Berlin (RIP), 2013. An origin story that like many of them includes some culinary ingenuity.

(Before we start: I made a quick, 4-question reader survey to help me better tailor this newsletter to what my readers want. I’d be so grateful if you'd take two minutes to fill it out here).

Readings on the origins of things

I love thinking about how we describe origins, and I just love the concept of “origins” itself: Of being able to clearly, cleanly identify when something came into the world that wasn't there before.

But the truth is more muddled: We don't have enough information in many cases to establish clear origins for, say, most dishes, or an exact moment when someone decided to domesticate a certain species of grain.

What we have, most often, are origin stories: A long, winding road with many missing pieces and where as researchers, we may have to follow our intuitive nudges and cast a wide net, rather than simply follow the most obvious (but often incomplete) path.

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Here are a few origin stories I've been reading about lately:

This piece on reinterpreting and reconstructing ancient songs from Vikings and from Babylon

A brief history of the fork (also recommended: Bee Wilson's Consider the Fork, perhaps alongside diving down an internet rabbit hole to explore the extensive and fascinating world of Victorian forks, including salad forks).

On the origins of fried chicken in the US, particularly Virginia, and its importance as a source of autonomy and economic freedom for Black women in the South.

Jessica Carbone on our messy first drafts, which, like the messy first pancake of a batch, are all a part of the process of bringing work (or breakfast) to life. I like the reminder that our lopsided, lumpy, imperfect work deserves space, too (read to the bottom for some great reading recommendations).

And finally, the origins of horchata, one of my very favorite drinks (I grew up with the Mexican version, and it was fun to learn about the other versions and its African origins).

What are your favorite origin stories, interesting histories, or origin stories from your own place or people? The more unexpected, the better!

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Strawberry Poblano Pepper Sauce

If my smoker is already up and going, I like to throw my peppers and berries on for just a few minutes to add some flavor: IMHO the smoke adds a lot to this sauce BUT it can also be made without smoked peppers. Or, you can experiment with adding other smoky flavors instead (like swapping out the regular fine sea salt for smoked salt).

2 lbs strawberries

2 poblano peppers

½ tsp salt

3 tbsp muscovado sugar 

1 tbsp ACV

1 tbsp 3 Root Paste or minced garlic

For more heat, add 1 red jalapeno

·       In a 125 degree smoker (I like hickory for this recipe), smoke your peppers and strawberries ~15 minutes or until fragrant and slightly softened

·       Add remaining ingredients, plus peppers and strawberries, to a blender and blend until smooth

·       If you like more tart, sweet, or salty, add and adjust salt, sugar and vinegar as needed. This sauce is all about customizing to your palate!

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