Lisbon to Madrid
21:25 Lisbon--08:40 Madrid
A farewell to Lisbon yesterday. It might have been with a heavier heart, but we ended up a lot soggy and the thought of sun...
Another renfe overnight train, in fact the same crew that were with us to Lisbon. And this time, some attempt to knock the rust from my Spanish, resulting in me telling the server behind the bar that I loved him rather than asking about whether he enjoyed his work. Querer y gustar you tricksy verbsies. Doh!
A parting note about how much we enjoyed eating and drinking in Lisbon. Two restaurants and two bars worthy of special mention.
The proprietors claimed to be inexperienced with their 'project' but were utterly gracious and provided delicious fare and a sense of camaraderie
The cocktail of Ben's life at this gorgeous little speakeasy-feel bar. We were so impressed with the smoke (the drink was delivered wrapped in brown paper) that our enquiry resulted in the proud mixologist showing us his 'smoke gun'
Sensational food, sprinkled with flowers, in a humble, fusionesque restaurant down a cute side street with an intensely charming restaurateur. Ben had a peanut butter cheesecake and I had lava cake over greek yoghurt and biscuit crumbs garnished with physalis. Drooling just remembering it
Procópio bar, recommended by my friend Marcel, a beautiful 1920s feel bar. In a tiny square by the museum of water and an aquaduct referred to by mon amour John Berger in his essay about Lisbon, where he meets his tram riding dead mother. A heady, what-are-the-chances confluence of phenomena that inspired great wonder at this small great world.
We were on the tracks, crossing European borders as the UK 'left' Europe. It was a complicated night involving many tears. But that's another story.